{"id":1263,"date":"2006-12-27T19:01:02","date_gmt":"2006-12-27T19:01:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=1263"},"modified":"2023-09-25T17:30:18","modified_gmt":"2023-09-26T00:30:18","slug":"panic-at-the-sewing-room","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/","title":{"rendered":"panic! at the sewing room"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>My idea for recreating the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.tudor-portraits.com\/LetticeKnollys.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Lettice Knollys<\/a> sleeves isn&#8217;t panning out, and I&#8217;m thinking of ditching that concept for now in favor of something quicker that uses less fabric. I can futz with the Knollys sleeve later. I *need* to have a wearable Elizabethan gown by January 6th, no lie. Doesn&#8217;t have to be fancy, just has to be wearable, and have NOTHING in my closet.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s what I did today, and I&#8217;m not happy with it:<\/p>\n<div class=\"tiled-gallery type-rectangular tiled-gallery-unresized\" data-original-width=\"640\" data-carousel-extra='null' itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\" > <div class=\"gallery-row\" style=\"width: 640px; height: 532px;\" data-original-width=\"640\" data-original-height=\"532\" > <div class=\"gallery-group images-1\" style=\"width: 317px; height: 532px;\" data-original-width=\"317\" data-original-height=\"532\" > <div class=\"tiled-gallery-item tiled-gallery-item-large\" itemprop=\"associatedMedia\" itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageObject\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?ssl=1\" border=\"0\" itemprop=\"url\"> <meta itemprop=\"width\" content=\"313\"> <meta itemprop=\"height\" content=\"528\"> <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"\" data-attachment-id=\"1265\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"237,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;2.8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;DiMAGE F300&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1167241835&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;7.8&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;200&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.022222222222222&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Sleeve mockup 2\" data-image-description=\"&lt;p&gt;Sleeve mockup 2&lt;\/p&gt; \" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?fit=177%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?fit=237%2C400&#038;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?w=313&#038;h=528&#038;ssl=1\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?w=237&amp;ssl=1 237w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?resize=177%2C300&amp;ssl=1 177w\" width=\"313\" height=\"528\" loading=\"lazy\" data-original-width=\"313\" data-original-height=\"528\" itemprop=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/image\" title=\"Sleeve mockup 2\" alt=\"Sleeve mockup 2\" style=\"width: 313px; height: 528px;\" \/> <\/a> <div class=\"tiled-gallery-caption\" itemprop=\"caption description\"> Sleeve mockup 2 <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <!-- close group --> <div class=\"gallery-group images-1\" style=\"width: 323px; height: 532px;\" data-original-width=\"323\" data-original-height=\"532\" > <div class=\"tiled-gallery-item tiled-gallery-item-large\" itemprop=\"associatedMedia\" itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageObject\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?ssl=1\" border=\"0\" itemprop=\"url\"> <meta itemprop=\"width\" content=\"319\"> <meta itemprop=\"height\" content=\"528\"> <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"\" data-attachment-id=\"1264\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"242,400\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;2.8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;DiMAGE F300&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1167241743&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;8.4&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;200&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.022222222222222&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Sleeve mockup 1\" data-image-description=\"&lt;p&gt;Sleeve mockup 1&lt;\/p&gt; \" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?fit=181%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?fit=242%2C400&#038;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?w=319&#038;h=528&#038;ssl=1\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?w=242&amp;ssl=1 242w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-hanging.jpg?resize=181%2C300&amp;ssl=1 181w\" width=\"319\" height=\"528\" loading=\"lazy\" data-original-width=\"319\" data-original-height=\"528\" itemprop=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/image\" title=\"Sleeve mockup 1\" alt=\"Sleeve mockup 1\" style=\"width: 319px; height: 528px;\" \/> <\/a> <div class=\"tiled-gallery-caption\" itemprop=\"caption description\"> Sleeve mockup 1 <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <!-- close group --> <\/div> <!-- close row --> <\/div>\n<p>This was in a stiffer cotton than muslin, clearly not as stiff as the brocade-interlined-with-twill I&#8217;ll use for the final sleeve, so it doesn&#8217;t have the same fullness. But I don&#8217;t like the shape of the hanging sleeve &#8212; it&#8217;s identical to the inner sleeve and that doesn&#8217;t work, should be straighter and not curved. The inner sleeve is ok, but I messed up the armscye size (again &#8212; christ, I always seem to do that when I try to draft my own sleeves!). I did draft a nice cuff and epaulet on my own, but then, those aren&#8217;t exactly rocket science.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1989\" style=\"width: 191px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/12\/sleevemock-small.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1989\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-1989 size-full\" title=\"Small sleeve mockup\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/12\/sleevemock-small.jpg?resize=181%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"Small sleeve mockup\" width=\"181\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1989\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Small sleeve mockup<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Point is, the pattern isn&#8217;t perfect enough for me to want to cut into the pearled silk I spent big bucks on for the inner sleeve, nor waste that much of the nice burgundy brocade for the outer sleeve.<\/p>\n<p>So I need new sleeves! I could try to cut it down in width. Or I could try a different sleeve from Hunnisett. She has a &#8220;basic small Elizabethan sleeve&#8221; on page 64 of the 1500-1800 book. Simple straight sleeve, one piece, I think it has a seam in the back.<\/p>\n<p>Kinda plain and boring, but I am in a hurry, and I&#8217;ll do a cool sleeve for the Elizabeth and the Pirate Feast (tix on sale now!). Whatever sleeves I make will tie\/hook on anyway for ye olde Elizabethan interchangeability.<\/p>\n<p>Ok, here&#8217;s the small sleeve mocked-up (on the left). It&#8217;s not fancy, but it doesn&#8217;t take up much fabric and it&#8217;s easy. Eh, oh well. Guess I&#8217;ll go for that.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m also thinking I should make the skirt closed in the front. No time for a forepart. Gah. No time for anything. What&#8217;s gonna go on my head even? Have to cover this modern hairdo! Eeek!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>My idea for recreating the Lettice Knollys sleeves isn&#8217;t panning out, and I&#8217;m thinking of ditching that concept for now in favor of something quicker that uses less fabric. I can futz with the Knollys sleeve later. I *need* to have a wearable Elizabethan gown by January 6th, no lie. Doesn&#8217;t have to be fancy,<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[65,133,213],"class_list":["post-1263","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-burgundy-1580s-court-gown","tag-makin-a-muslin","tag-sleevils"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>panic! at the sewing room | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"panic! at the sewing room | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"My idea for recreating the Lettice Knollys sleeves isn&#8217;t panning out, and I&#8217;m thinking of ditching that concept for now in favor of something quicker that uses less fabric. 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Doesn&#8217;t have to be fancy,Read the Rest of this Post...","og_url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/","og_site_name":"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet","article_published_time":"2006-12-27T19:01:02+00:00","article_modified_time":"2023-09-26T00:30:18+00:00","og_image":[{"url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock-poufy.jpg?w=313&#038;h=528&#038;ssl=1","type":"","width":"","height":""}],"author":"Trystan","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Trystan","Est. reading time":"2 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/12\/27\/panic-at-the-sewing-room\/"},"author":{"name":"Trystan","@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/#\/schema\/person\/99e48df14daeb87b80b4b926b103d532"},"headline":"panic! 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I like it. I think it's a fair resemblance to the actual Knollys sleeve. Y'know, if you get past the wimpy muslin\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/sleevemock2-hanging.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1208,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/11\/19\/im-in-ur-sewing-room-draftin-ur-pattrnz\/","url_meta":{"origin":1263,"position":1},"title":"I&#8217;m in ur sewing room draftin ur pattrnz!","author":"Trystan","date":"November 19, 2006","format":false,"excerpt":"I've never scaled up a pattern from a book. This year, I made a point of acquiring all the biggies of the historical costuming library like Janet Arnold and Jean Hunnisett. They're chock filled with patterns on teeny grids that you're supposedly able to use. But how? Nobody would fill\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/11\/mockup-side.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2637,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2012\/05\/25\/venetian-sleeves-my-debate\/","url_meta":{"origin":1263,"position":2},"title":"Venetian Sleeves &#8211; My Debate","author":"Trystan","date":"May 25, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"At the start of this week, Sarah dropped off my new Venetian courtesan gown. This is the \"real\" version, in the expensive silk damask, as opposed to the tourney version in cotton damask. I need to hem & trim the gown & make the sleeves. The first two tasks are\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/05\/1595-Fiammingo.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":302,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2010\/10\/10\/ugh-hot-sewing\/","url_meta":{"origin":1263,"position":3},"title":"Ugh, hot sewing","author":"Trystan","date":"October 10, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"Despite the insulation, my sewing room is 5-10 degrees hotter than the rest of the house, thanks to a corner bank of windows facing whatever direction the sun is most of the day. I need blackout curtains there, although that would make the cats sad (the window seat under said\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/pinkflorentine-inprogress1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1929,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/12\/12\/i-like-big-sleeves-i-cannot-lie\/","url_meta":{"origin":1263,"position":4},"title":"I like big sleeves &#038; I cannot lie","author":"Trystan","date":"December 12, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"The only kind of pattern drafting I enjoy is making sleeves. Not sure why, but it's something I feel like I can handle. Maybe because the fit isn't as weirdly tricky as going over the bust & around the waist. There's only the armscye\/sleeve head to deal with & then\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/medicisleeve-trimmockup.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1600,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2003\/01\/05\/start-me-up\/","url_meta":{"origin":1263,"position":5},"title":"Start me up","author":"Trystan","date":"January 5, 2003","format":false,"excerpt":"I used Simplicity 9891 for the body of the dress and McCall's 3663 for the sleeves. Luckily, I discovered that I had enough black velvet in my fabric stash already. Also had enough black lining in my stash. Only fabric I needed to buy was the silky dark red fabric\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Arwen Mourning Gown","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2003\/01\/arwenmourning-featured3.jpg?fit=400%2C219&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1263","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1263"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1263\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6501,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1263\/revisions\/6501"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1263"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1263"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1263"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}