{"id":1424,"date":"2009-03-21T19:03:58","date_gmt":"2009-03-21T19:03:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=1424"},"modified":"2014-12-12T10:39:31","modified_gmt":"2014-12-12T18:39:31","slug":"pleating-hell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/03\/21\/pleating-hell\/","title":{"rendered":"Pleating hell"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I F****KING HATE PLEATING!!!!!<\/p>\n<p>Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week.<\/p>\n<p>I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can&#8217;t get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it&#8217;s not as entirely sucktastic as the back.<\/p>\n<p>ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!<\/p>\n<p>I did this nicely on CFT years ago. How the hell, no idea. Thought I was doing it the same way. Apparently not. @*#$)&amp;%&amp;#)$&amp;)(*@#!!!#??@#<\/p>\n<p><em>Later that night&#8230;<\/em><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1428\" style=\"width: 273px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/50.87.248.88\/~trystanc\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/polonaise-progress-back.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1428\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1428 \" title=\"Polonaise back pleating, in-progress\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/50.87.248.88\/~trystanc\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/polonaise-progress-back.jpg?resize=263%2C350\" alt=\"Polonaise back pleating, in-progress\" width=\"263\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/polonaise-progress-back.jpg?w=375&amp;ssl=1 375w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/03\/polonaise-progress-back.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 263px) 100vw, 263px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1428\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Polonaise back pleating, in-progress<\/p><\/div>\n<p>So much to do, just gotta keep on with it. This weekend, I&#8217;ve drawn out the design for a gothy 18th-century pocket for my mom to embroidery and went to the store and bought the threads for said project; pre-washed a whole lot of fabric for boring-but-necessary historical undergarments and ironed said fabric (I&#8217;m giving the stink-eye right now to anyone who doesn&#8217;t LOATHE ironing); unspiraled a straw hat to make into a new hat; designed a pattern for a capote \/ pouf hat brim (to use said straw in); and pleated the damn skirt into the stripey polonaise bodice (having to rip out the center-back pleats and re-do them three times). Not in that order.<\/p>\n<p>I haven&#8217;t *finished* much of anything, and now I have to stop and shut down the sewing room so I can move furniture and empty the costume closet and rearrange the whole house so insulation can be installed Tuesday \/ Wednesday. Yippie.<\/p>\n<p>To the right are the pleats I&#8217;ve been fighting with since about 4pm&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>That&#8217;s over a bum roll, but I&#8217;ll definitely need to make a quilted petticoat to support the skirt better. The fabric is just too heavy.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I F****KING HATE PLEATING!!!!! Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week. I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can&#8217;t get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it&#8217;s not as entirely sucktastic as the back. ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/03\/21\/pleating-hell\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4696,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[92,173],"class_list":["post-1424","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-18th-century","tag-failure-is-always-an-option","tag-stripey-polonaiseville"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Pleating hell | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/03\/21\/pleating-hell\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pleating hell | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I F****KING HATE PLEATING!!!!! Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week. I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can&#8217;t get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it&#8217;s not as entirely sucktastic as the back. 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Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week. I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can&#8217;t get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it&#8217;s not as entirely sucktastic as the back. 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Always Better With Accessories (and Lace)","author":"Trystan","date":"June 30, 2003","format":false,"excerpt":"Finished the base of the skirt, including the cartridge pleating at the center back. And I took the GBACG's parasol re-covering workshop, where I covered a reproduction Victorian parasol frame with the sushi fabric and red contrast. I bought some black venice lace from Cheeptrims to edge the parasol &\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/sushi-progress-parasol.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3212,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/06\/13\/movin-right-along-cue-muppets\/","url_meta":{"origin":1424,"position":1},"title":"Movin&#8217; Right Along (Cue Muppets)","author":"Trystan","date":"June 13, 2006","format":false,"excerpt":"Petticoat is done! All that pleating nearly broke my brain, and it ain't perfectly even 'n stuff, but it's done. And it looks awfully cute, so I'm glad I did it. Also glad that I made the petticoat extra full because it gives a really pretty silhouette. Add the polonaise\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Cosi Fan Tutte petticoat ruffle","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/06\/petticoat-ruffle.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1063,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/11\/28\/steps-forward\/","url_meta":{"origin":1424,"position":2},"title":"Steps forward","author":"Trystan","date":"November 28, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"Finished hand-sewing gold lace on edge of hemmed fabric strip for 1580s\/1590s head-on-a-plate ruff. Now, I guess I start cartridge-pleating the ruff and\/or make the neckband -- that is to say, assemble the ruff? Later that day... Fingertips iz sore. Finished cartridge-pleating a smidge less than 4 yards into a\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/11\/ruff-step4.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3173,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2005\/11\/29\/and-so-some-costume-blather-first-thing-in-the-morning\/","url_meta":{"origin":1424,"position":3},"title":"And so, some costume blather, first thing in the morning","author":"Trystan","date":"November 29, 2005","format":false,"excerpt":"Right before I left for Europe, I was all a twitter over 18th-century costumes. This was inspired by a GBACG event in June 2006 at a Sonoma winery. I had finally settled on a caraco jacket made out of a black linen embroidered with blue vines, found on eBay (the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"black & white music-print fabrics","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/fabric-bwmusic.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1333,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/02\/01\/thread-shortage-yet-crisis-averted\/","url_meta":{"origin":1424,"position":4},"title":"Thread shortage (yet crisis averted)","author":"Trystan","date":"February 1, 2007","format":false,"excerpt":"So here I am last night, prepping the top edge of the skirt for cartridge-pleating. I'm using a strip of gingham because (a) I have a boat-load leftover from a previous cartridge-pleated skirt, (b) it makes for super-fast and easy marking, that is, no marking needed, just count off the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"1580s gown","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/03\/1580s-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C282&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":523,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/02\/19\/into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/","url_meta":{"origin":1424,"position":5},"title":"Into skirt-land, on our Y!Group","author":"Trystan","date":"February 19, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"I started my skirt this weekend, but I have a bunch of probably dumb questions... First, any recommendations for pleating into the waistband? I have a lot of fabric (maybe too much -- about 5 yards, iirc) and several layers. Cartridge-pleating, box pleating, knife pleating? Other? Combo? Also, should the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Marquise de la Tour-Maubourg","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/portrait-marquise.jpg?fit=382%2C500&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1424"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4809,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1424\/revisions\/4809"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4696"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1424"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1424"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1424"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}