{"id":1581,"date":"2007-09-15T23:06:14","date_gmt":"2007-09-15T23:06:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=1581"},"modified":"2014-12-11T15:05:46","modified_gmt":"2014-12-11T23:05:46","slug":"janet-arnold-is-a-crack-smoking-weasel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/09\/15\/janet-arnold-is-a-crack-smoking-weasel\/","title":{"rendered":"Janet Arnold is a crack-smoking weasel"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Seriously, why do you costumer folk love her? Nice books, but she made diagrams of clothing worn by mutant pygmies. Im-freakin&#8217;-possible to scale up from for real people, unless you enjoy frustration or are some kind of architectural genius.<\/p>\n<p>I was seduced into thinking I might use those books for genuine costuming applications (as opposed to &#8220;ooo shiny!&#8221;) because I had such good results scaling up from Hunniset and the Tudor Tailor books. But those patterns are actually made for human beings, and, well, they&#8217;re real *patterns* not drawings of freaky antique clothing items that survived because they were too small to be worn out by people or they were bizarre examples that nobody wanted to scavenge into usable clothing for normal-sized people.<\/p>\n<p>Oh, so can you guess how I ended up spending my last couple hours? Yeah. The sewing room garbage can overfloweth with muslin and tracing paper now because I tried to use the scale pattern from Janet Arnold for a caraco. Four pieces for a bodice? Who are you kidding? Even my flatter-shaped 16th-century bodice has five pieces. The Arnold caraco back pieces were way too skinny no matter how much I enlarged. Also, the skirting was extremely wasteful of fabric, which struck me as very odd in an era of narrow fabric widths and overall thrift and clever yardage use (according to Sally Queen, anyways). Jackets were supposedly popular with the middle-classes, so why waste all this width?<\/p>\n<p>Anyway, after much annoyance and one wadding of the muslin in a ball and shoving it in the trash can, I finally decided to do what I&#8217;d said I might do in the first place: simply draw long, full caraco-style skirts onto the Butterick bodice pattern I used for Cosi Fan Tutte. The bodice fits like a dream (it&#8217;d better, after three muslins last year!) and has quite a few nods to historical accuracy so it does &#8220;pass&#8221; IMO.<\/p>\n<p>Dug the muslin out so as to not waste *that* fabric, reused most of the pieces into the Butterick bodice, and *ta da* now I have a great caraco muslin. Just need to even the skirting hem, since I couldn&#8217;t decide where I wanted it to end. Plus I have to decide the front treatment &#8212; it&#8217;ll be zone-like, and I may want some little tabs on the bottom. Not sure.<\/p>\n<p>Moral of the story: Patterns are my friend. Screw that drafting BS. Not like I&#8217;m a Clydesdale, y&#8217;know.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Seriously, why do you costumer folk love her? Nice books, but she made diagrams of clothing worn by mutant pygmies. Im-freakin&#8217;-possible to scale up from for real people, unless you enjoy frustration or are some kind of architectural genius. I was seduced into thinking I might use those books for genuine costuming applications (as opposed<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/09\/15\/janet-arnold-is-a-crack-smoking-weasel\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4696,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[61,147],"class_list":["post-1581","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-18th-century","tag-blue-caraco","tag-pattern-drafting"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Janet Arnold is a crack-smoking weasel | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/09\/15\/janet-arnold-is-a-crack-smoking-weasel\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Janet Arnold is a crack-smoking weasel | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Seriously, why do you costumer folk love her? Nice books, but she made diagrams of clothing worn by mutant pygmies. Im-freakin&#8217;-possible to scale up from for real people, unless you enjoy frustration or are some kind of architectural genius. 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It's the scene that\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Characters&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Characters","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/characters\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Cathy from \"Wuthering Heights\"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2002\/11\/wuthering1-straight.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2096,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/05\/04\/newbie-garb-that-doesnt-look-newbie\/","url_meta":{"origin":1581,"position":1},"title":"Newbie Garb That Doesn&#8217;t Look Newbie","author":"Trystan","date":"May 4, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"\u00a0 By Lady Violet Ruthvene in the SCA This is an accompaniment to a lecture and demonstration class I taught at the Province of Southern Shores' Newcomers Tourney in May 2011. 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Clothing and fabric were big investments before the post-World-War-II manufacturing boom that lead to our current state of disposable fast fashion. If a garment could be used again, it was. Best dresses became second-best or\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Tailor's shop, Amman Sachs, 1568","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/tailorsshope.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3934,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2013\/12\/30\/elizabethan-tall-hats-gallery\/","url_meta":{"origin":1581,"position":3},"title":"Elizabethan Tall Hats Gallery","author":"Trystan","date":"December 30, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"One of my favorite styles of 16th-century headgear is the tall crowned hat. It was first worn by men starting around the 1570s mostly in England, the Low Countries, & Spain. Women soon adopted the style, particularly when worn with high-necked doublet-style bodices. This fashion was hugely popular, which lead\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"1578, Oliver St John, 1st Baron St John of Bletso, by Arnold van Bronckorst. Image source: Wikimedia Commons","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/1578-Oliver_St_John.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5349,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2018\/11\/13\/book-review-patterns-of-fashion-5-bodies-stays-hoops-and-rumps-c-1595-1795\/","url_meta":{"origin":1581,"position":4},"title":"Book Review: Patterns of Fashion 5 &#8211; Bodies, Stays, Hoops, and Rumps c. 1595-1795","author":"Trystan L. Bass","date":"November 13, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Specifically, this is a review of Patterns of Fashion 5: The Content, Cut, Construction, and Context of Bodies, Stays, Hoops, and Rumps c. 1595-1795 by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, & Luca Costigliolo with Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas & Johannes Pietsch, to give the full title and credit to all involved.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Patterns of Fashion 5","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/11\/PoF5-QEIbodies.jpg?fit=450%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4936,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2015\/01\/28\/bronte-beginnings\/","url_meta":{"origin":1581,"position":5},"title":"Bront\u00eb Beginnings","author":"Trystan L. Bass","date":"January 28, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"I have a hankering to recreate Charlotte Bront\u00eb's going-away dress, c. 1854. Specifically to wear at Costume College in 2015, since the theme will be \"Plucked From the Pages,\" aka books and literary characters.\u00a0 I have a pattern (really just a scaled diagram) taken from the actual dress that is\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Bronte Parsonage Museum sign","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/4625648738_996106f2a1_o.jpg?fit=600%2C498&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/4625648738_996106f2a1_o.jpg?fit=600%2C498&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/4625648738_996106f2a1_o.jpg?fit=600%2C498&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1581","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1581"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1581\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4723,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1581\/revisions\/4723"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4696"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1581"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1581"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1581"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}