{"id":1895,"date":"2011-11-25T19:00:45","date_gmt":"2011-11-26T02:00:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=1895"},"modified":"2023-09-25T18:01:22","modified_gmt":"2023-09-26T01:01:22","slug":"first-florentine-step","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/11\/25\/first-florentine-step\/","title":{"rendered":"First Florentine step"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Florentine<\/a>

Florentine smock<\/p><\/div>\n

Finished the smock. Seems like such a little thing — it’s just underwear! And, indeed, most of it went swimmingly. I used my pattern from ye olde smock generator<\/a> from Drea Leed’s site. I remembered to add some width to the body, but not too much (I have a history of not trusting this pattern’s body width & then wildly over-calculating, which ends up with a massively huge smock; however, the one time I used the measurement as-is, the smock fit, but I ended up with side back seam rips after the first day of wearing — smidge too tight). Basic rectangular construction, & I had 75% of it done in one evening. I even used linen because I had about 2 yards of relatively fine stuff, prewashed, just laying around (see, I usually use cotton because it feels better next to my skin, & yes, I know I’m an historical heretic for saying that).<\/p>\n

But then there was the collar. I wanted the pretty, ruffled wide collar like in the Isabella de Medici portrait. In the section on partlets in Moda a Firenze<\/em>, it notes that, as collars rose up behind the neck in the 1550s, partlets did too & could feature elaborate decoration. Well, I wasn’t going for that effect, but I wanted the ruffles at least. Moda<\/em> goes on to describe the partlet ruffle in the 1560s closing at the bottom to form a ring around the neck. The Isabella portrait shows the ruffles meeting at the base of the neck, & I quite liked that. But how to achieve this?<\/p>\n

I’m sure there are 15 ways to make this collar that would have been faster & simpler than what I finally did. At least I had all of the day after Thanksgiving to work on it! A lot of handsewing (ew) was involved, & some of the facings are a hack job, if you look too close. But if anyone’s up *that* close when I’m wearing it, either they’re kissing me or I’m punching them.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Finished the smock. Seems like such a little thing — it’s just underwear! And, indeed, most of it went swimmingly. I used my pattern from ye olde smock generator from Drea Leed’s site. I remembered to add some width to the body, but not too much (I have a history of not trusting this pattern’s<\/p>\n

Read the Rest of this Post…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[33,147],"class_list":["post-1895","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-1560s-black-white-medici-gown","tag-pattern-drafting"],"yoast_head":"\nFirst Florentine step | Trystan's Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/11\/25\/first-florentine-step\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"First Florentine step | Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Finished the smock. Seems like such a little thing — it’s just underwear! And, indeed, most of it went swimmingly. I used my pattern from ye olde smock generator from Drea Leed’s site. 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Here is my sleeveless zimarra worn with the 1530s gown (no, not historically accurate, but the combo looked nice for one event :), and I\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/zimarracoat-full-ghislane.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2605,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2012\/05\/10\/venetian-camicia\/","url_meta":{"origin":1895,"position":1},"title":"Venetian Camicia","author":"Trystan","date":"May 10, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"New costumes start from the skin out, so that means new undies. Sure, I have shifts \/ smocks \/ chemises (depending on how historically accurate you want to be & which specific century you're talking about). But for playing a Venetian courtesan at renaissance faires this year, I needed a\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"my camicia's pearl \"buttons\"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/04\/camicia3.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2934,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2012\/11\/19\/an-experiment-in-machine-embroidery\/","url_meta":{"origin":1895,"position":2},"title":"An Experiment in Machine Embroidery","author":"Trystan","date":"November 19, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"After owning a fancy new sewing machine that does embroidery for nearly half a year, I finally got around to testing said capabilities just this week. I was spurred on by two things: 1) I was finished with Collegium so I had time & 2) a new group popped up\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Thistle-pattern machine embroidery","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/testembroidersmock3.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/testembroidersmock3.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/testembroidersmock3.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":6242,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2023\/09\/28\/18th-c-does-17th-c-masquerade-gown-in-progress\/","url_meta":{"origin":1895,"position":3},"title":"18th-c. Does 17th-c. Masquerade Gown – In Progress","author":"Trystan L. Bass","date":"September 28, 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"I've wanted to make a repro of this gown since seeing the painting of Lady Frances Courtenay by Thomas Hudson at the Huntington in 2011. I love seeing how one era interprets another era, and this style is so romantic and pretty! 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First, is about our Winterhalter -- yes, his costume needs to go through workmanship judging, even though he's really a 'prop' for the presentation and what we'd planned for him to wear is more theatrical than documentably\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "19th Century"","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"WInterhalter","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/winterhalter.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3180,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/0206\/04\/05\/costume-blather-to-distract-my-weak-head\/","url_meta":{"origin":1895,"position":5},"title":"Costume Blather to Distract My Weak Head","author":"Trystan","date":"April 5, 0206","format":false,"excerpt":"Currently, all I have of my 18th-century costume is a plain white cotton shift which I whipped up yesterday in a rare non-headachy moment. 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