{"id":3210,"date":"2006-07-10T15:10:34","date_gmt":"2006-07-10T22:10:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=3210"},"modified":"2014-12-13T02:09:36","modified_gmt":"2014-12-13T10:09:36","slug":"oh-pleat-me","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/","title":{"rendered":"Oh Pleat Me"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;m stuck on the pleating. Can&#8217;t figure out a simple equation for determining how much fabric should be in the pleat and how much between each pleat. My petticoat is 184&#8243; around the hem. It will have a pleated flounce at the bottom. I sewed together all the strips for the flounce, and it measures 456&#8243; long. I want to pleat this strip so it fits the petticoat hem.<\/p>\n<p>I tried a bunch of things last night. First, I thought the ruffler\/pleater foot on my sewing machine would make it a cinch. Hah! That foot is a PITA. It only sometimes works, and even then only works on one setting &#8212; a tight ruffle. Too tight both for my taste and for the lengths involved. After spending two hours futzing with the foot (which involved a screwdriver), and gave up and tried marking pleats on a fabric scrap to test. My guesswork didn&#8217;t work. After another hour, I gave up on that. Then I went to the pleating guide that came with the pattern.<\/p>\n<p>Why didn&#8217;t I just use this to begin with, you ask? Especially when I used the pleating guide on the dress skirt, and it worked beautifully? Well, I made the petticoat and flounce according to no measurements. I used the length from the pattern, but just cut from selvage to selvage on both &#8212; I love using selvages for straight seams because it means no fraying. But this all means that my final measurements are a little bigger than the pattern. If my calculations are correct (and they never are), I&#8217;d be short about 3&#8243; if I used the pattern guide.<\/p>\n<p>Now, I did consider adding more length to the flounce&#8230; but I&#8217;ve already put a nice, tidy rolled hem on both long edges. It&#8217;d be messy, though I guess I could hand-rolled-hem the joins. Hrm&#8230; maybe that&#8217;s the better solution? Add length, then use the pleating guide?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;m stuck on the pleating. Can&#8217;t figure out a simple equation for determining how much fabric should be in the pleat and how much between each pleat. My petticoat is 184&#8243; around the hem. It will have a pleated flounce at the bottom. I sewed together all the strips for the flounce, and it measures<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3174,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[71,92],"class_list":["post-3210","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-18th-century","tag-cosi-fan-tutte","tag-failure-is-always-an-option"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Oh Pleat Me | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Oh Pleat Me | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I&#8217;m stuck on the pleating. Can&#8217;t figure out a simple equation for determining how much fabric should be in the pleat and how much between each pleat. My petticoat is 184&#8243; around the hem. It will have a pleated flounce at the bottom. I sewed together all the strips for the flounce, and it measuresRead the Rest of this Post...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2006-07-10T22:10:34+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-12-13T10:09:36+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/fabric-bwmusic.jpg?fit=400%2C300&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"400\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"300\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" 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Can&#8217;t figure out a simple equation for determining how much fabric should be in the pleat and how much between each pleat. My petticoat is 184&#8243; around the hem. It will have a pleated flounce at the bottom. I sewed together all the strips for the flounce, and it measuresRead the Rest of this Post...","og_url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/","og_site_name":"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet","article_published_time":"2006-07-10T22:10:34+00:00","article_modified_time":"2014-12-13T10:09:36+00:00","og_image":[{"width":400,"height":300,"url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/fabric-bwmusic.jpg?fit=400%2C300&ssl=1","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Trystan","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Trystan","Est. reading time":"2 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/"},"author":{"name":"Trystan","@id":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/#\/schema\/person\/99e48df14daeb87b80b4b926b103d532"},"headline":"Oh 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hem beat by stich-witchery","author":"Trystan","date":"April 6, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"After finding a very helpful video showing how to do a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine, I realized I need a new foot for my machine. Additional research showed I might could use a specific guide, not necessarily a full foot. I'll check and see if I already\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Petticoat in-progress","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/polonaise-progress-petticoat.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1513,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/01\/11\/look-ma-no-pins\/","url_meta":{"origin":3210,"position":1},"title":"Look ma, no pins!","author":"Trystan","date":"January 11, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Made great progress on the Carnivale gown today, although these photos will not seem like much. However, I've now sewn all the bits that Kendra draped and pinned on me. The only things left on the black francaise portion are to bind the back neck edge, draft sleeves, and hem\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/gown-inprogress1-handsew.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1686,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2004\/05\/20\/skirting-the-issue\/","url_meta":{"origin":3210,"position":2},"title":"Skirting the issue","author":"Trystan","date":"May 20, 2004","format":false,"excerpt":"This skirt is hella cool, but it's kicking my ass. All the hand sewing! My eyes are blurry, my back aches. Last night, it was sewing the pleats to the waistband. Tedious as all heck, especially since I made the pleats probably a smidge too small. The skirt's pleated edge\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Pirate skirt, in progress","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/pirateskirt-inprogress.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":921,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2010\/04\/20\/skirts-and-trims\/","url_meta":{"origin":3210,"position":3},"title":"Skirts and trims","author":"Trystan","date":"April 20, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"I set a strip of hook-and-eye tape in the late 16th-c. loose gown, which I started work on. Goal is to have this wearable for June A&S (yeah, yeah, planny-pants here is thinking ahead even though I'm still finishing stuff for the UK trip). Got the main body finished last\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Loose Gown Pattern","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/loosegown-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C248&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1166,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/09\/20\/revamp-in-time-for-folsom\/","url_meta":{"origin":3210,"position":4},"title":"Revamp in time for Folsom?","author":"Trystan","date":"September 20, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"I have an itch to revamp the Veronese overgown in time for Folsom Renaissance Faire, since it looks like the Chateau Rose will be attending in one form or another. And if I can't have an actual new gown, the next best thing is to remake an old one. My\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/PaoloCaliari-Louvre-sketch.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2882,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2012\/10\/15\/starting-on-veronica-gambara\/","url_meta":{"origin":3210,"position":5},"title":"Starting on Veronica Gambara","author":"Trystan","date":"October 15, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"There's not much to show for it, but really,\u00a0 I've started and am, in fact, well on the way with my gown to portray Veronica Gambara at the Collegium class \"A Feast in 1530s Correggio.\" The gown is a loose interpretation of the portrait shown on the right. Except I'm\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Portrait of a lady by Pierfrancesco di Jacopo Foschi, 1535 (image source: Web Gallery of Art)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foschi-lady-1535-228x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3210","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3210"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3210\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4691,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3210\/revisions\/4691"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3174"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3210"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3210"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3210"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}