{"id":373,"date":"2011-03-01T02:11:41","date_gmt":"2011-03-01T02:11:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=373"},"modified":"2014-12-12T13:07:07","modified_gmt":"2014-12-12T21:07:07","slug":"last-minute-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/01\/last-minute-jacket\/","title":{"rendered":"Last-minute jacket!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Fueled by vast quantities of Kauai coffee, I started on a new jacket for Williamsburg. Yeah, I went there. Made from this purple-shot-with-red dupioni silk in The Stash. First, I dug out the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jpryan.com\/details\/jacket.html\" target=\"_blank\">J.P. Ryan jacket pattern<\/a> I&#8217;d fitted last fall in planning for the Lumieres gambling party (but abandoned in favor of the stripey anglaise).<\/p>\n<p>I tried the muslin on and didn&#8217;t like the fit. So I padded out my dressform (ehem), corseted it, and pinned away. Adjusted the back some and took a big old dart in the front (that I patterned out). Didn&#8217;t want to waste time on another muslin, so I risked it by cutting the next version out of the black linen intended to be the lining. Ta-da! Fit great.<\/p>\n<p>Had lunch and got the idea (perhaps inspired by <em>Ru-Paul&#8217;s Drag Race<\/em>, which just tells me to make everything more FABULOUS) to make the jacket pin over a stomacher, specifically a stomacher made of this lavender silk-like scrap of fabric trimmed w\/a diamond pattern of ribbon, a gift from Loren. It&#8217;s already covered in goodness, so automatically ups the interest factor.<\/p>\n<p>Tried on the lining over corset and re-marked the front edge, with occasional reference to the laced-front \/ stomacher-front jackets in Janet Arnold for necklines. Re-cut and marked muslin pattern. Cut and sewed silk. Watched more Ru-Paul while my back un-kinked. Made a cocktail, clipped and pressed seams. Then bag-lined, baby. Turned and pressed the bejezzus out of that sucker.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s now sitting on the dressform, whilst I make shrimp korma (bottled sauce) for dinner.<\/p>\n<p>The stomacher should be easy-peasy. Then it&#8217;s time to trim, trim, trim. This *could* be done in time &#8212; wish me luck, bitches!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Fueled by vast quantities of Kauai coffee, I started on a new jacket for Williamsburg. Yeah, I went there. Made from this purple-shot-with-red dupioni silk in The Stash. First, I dug out the J.P. Ryan jacket pattern I&#8217;d fitted last fall in planning for the Lumieres gambling party (but abandoned in favor of the stripey<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/01\/last-minute-jacket\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4713,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[158,69,124,184],"class_list":["post-373","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-18th-century","tag-purple-18th-c-jacket","tag-colonial-williamsburg","tag-last-minute-sewing","tag-trim-trim-trim"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Last-minute jacket! | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/01\/last-minute-jacket\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Last-minute jacket! | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Fueled by vast quantities of Kauai coffee, I started on a new jacket for Williamsburg. Yeah, I went there. Made from this purple-shot-with-red dupioni silk in The Stash. First, I dug out the J.P. Ryan jacket pattern I&#8217;d fitted last fall in planning for the Lumieres gambling party (but abandoned in favor of the stripeyRead the Rest of this Post...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/01\/last-minute-jacket\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2011-03-01T02:11:41+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-12-12T21:07:07+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2007\/02\/time-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C220&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"400\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"220\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Trystan\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/99e48df14daeb87b80b4b926b103d532\"},\"headline\":\"Last-minute jacket!\",\"datePublished\":\"2011-03-01T02:11:41+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2014-12-12T21:07:07+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":294,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/i0.wp.com\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2007\\\/02\\\/time-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C220&ssl=1\",\"keywords\":[\"18th-c purple jacket\",\"Colonial Williamsburg\",\"last-minute sewing\",\"trim trim trim\"],\"articleSection\":[\"18th Century\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.trystancraft.com\\\/costume\\\/2011\\\/03\\\/01\\\/last-minute-jacket\\\/\",\"name\":\"Last-minute jacket! 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Made gathered trim for the jacket's sleeves and attached it to one sleeve. Should be pretty fast to attach it to the next sleeve, then sew the black velvet braid on top on both sleeves. I'm doing all the trimming by machine,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Ladies Sewing Circle & Terrorist Society","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/12\/sewingcirlce-featured.gif?fit=400%2C335&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":381,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/19\/18th-century-purple-silk-jacket-made-in-one-week\/","url_meta":{"origin":373,"position":1},"title":"18th-Century Purple Silk Jacket, Made in One Week","author":"Trystan","date":"March 19, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"I wore this jacket with a black silk petticoat already in my closet, a purple mini-tricorn I purchased a few years ago, and various vintage and new accessories. Photos were taken at Colonial Williamsburg. More photos from this Williamsburg trip on Flickr.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/tryst-purplejacket1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":377,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/06\/sneak-peek\/","url_meta":{"origin":373,"position":2},"title":"Sneak peek","author":"Trystan","date":"March 6, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Now there's (crappy iPhone photo) evidence that I can make a jacket in a week! It's finished with time to spare. All I have to do now for Williamsburg is dye my hair and pack.","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"18th-c. purple jacket","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/purplejacket.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1115,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2010\/06\/24\/now-thats-how-a-pattern-should-work\/","url_meta":{"origin":373,"position":3},"title":"Now that&#8217;s how a pattern should work!","author":"Trystan","date":"June 24, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"The J.P. Ryan 18th-century jacket pattern is seriously made of WIN. I idly did a mockup this evening, on a whim. The size fit true, went together easily (didn't even need to consult the instructions), & *drum roll please* it fits! DOOOD. So I cut it out of the fashion\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/mockup-front.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1675,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2004\/05\/02\/muslin-velvet\/","url_meta":{"origin":373,"position":4},"title":"Muslin, velvet","author":"Trystan","date":"May 2, 2004","format":false,"excerpt":"Made a muslin of the jacket. Added big darts in the front, modified the shoulder and armscye all to heck. But it seems to fit in a more ladylike fashion, which is the point. Started sewing it up in the velvets. Looks... well, the front darts look weird. But trim\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Lady Pirate","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2004\/04\/ladypirate-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C272&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":989,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/08\/23\/reminders-to-self\/","url_meta":{"origin":373,"position":5},"title":"Reminders to self","author":"Trystan","date":"August 23, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"There's no point even considering hand-sewing something when the pattern you're using (Jacobean Jacket by Dawn Anderson Designs) isn't terribly accurate to begin with. It's not horribly inaccurate -- I can see exactly why the designer chose to put a seam there and that *is* accurate for doublet bodices in\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Jacobean jacket muslin","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/08\/jacket-muslin2-166x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=373"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4852,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/373\/revisions\/4852"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4713"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=373"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=373"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=373"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}