{"id":4111,"date":"2014-03-28T10:16:05","date_gmt":"2014-03-28T17:16:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=4111"},"modified":"2014-12-11T12:12:19","modified_gmt":"2014-12-11T20:12:19","slug":"black-fleur-de-lis-gown-red-sideless-surcote","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2014\/03\/28\/black-fleur-de-lis-gown-red-sideless-surcote\/","title":{"rendered":"Black Fleur-de-Lis Gown & Red Sideless Surcote"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Black<\/a>

Black fleur-de-lis gown by Artemisia Dance Designs on eBay<\/p><\/div>\n

Taking my dip into “early period” to new heights … This started as a cheesy dress bought on eBay just to kick around camp, probably on Sundays, maybe in summer (since it’s a fairly lightweight cotton). I bought a size based on my hip measurement, knowing I’d have to fit the bodice down, plus hack several miles off the hem & wrists, as per usual with generic sizing. Being a (historically inaccurate) princess-seamed garment, it was super-easy to alter to fit, even by myself just facing the mirror.<\/p>\n

Then I got an idea. Wouldn’t this be nice with another layer? I’ve always loved the look of a sideless surcote, aka “the gates of hell.” What goes with black & gold? What do I have in The Stash? Frantic pawing through fabric bins ensued. I had 5 yards of 45″ wide red silk dupioni (not very slubby either). Wow, what a great color combo! Could I eek out a wide, drapey garment out of narrow fabric? After all, piecing is period.<\/p>\n

I relied heavily on\u00a0Jehanne de Wodeford \/ Saionji no Hana’s sideless surcote pattern<\/a> page (since this isn’t my period & because I was doing this 2 weeks before the event, I wasn’t going to delve into original research; also, did I mention this is going over a silly store-bought dress?) & I looked at Sabrina de la Bere’s sideless surcotes<\/a> PDF. Using those, plus a mix of historical\u00a0images in\u00a020,000 Years of Fashion<\/em> by Francois Boucher & fantasy images<\/a>, I mocked up a version of the bodice in muslin. Then I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to lay out the pattern & gussets on the fabric & figuring what needed to be seamed or pieced. Turned out that one side gusset needed piecing & that was all, whew.<\/p>\n

And then, because lilies must be gilded (& because I had the material in The Stash), I added strips of black faux fur around the neck & sides. With just barely enough time for shipping, I also found a gold girdle on Etsy. For a circlet, I stripped trim off the brass circlet I use with my Bitchy Roman Loungewear<\/a>. I made a black linen circular veil too.<\/p>\n

First worn at SCA March Crown 2014.<\/p>\n

\"Black <\/a>
Black fleur-de-lis gown & red sideless surcote <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"So-called <\/a>
So-called “gates of hell” <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"Getting <\/a>
Getting medieval on this thing <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Taking my dip into “early period” to new heights … This started as a cheesy dress bought on eBay just to kick around camp, probably on Sundays, maybe in summer (since it’s a fairly lightweight cotton). I bought a size based on my hip measurement, knowing I’d have to fit the bodice down, plus hack<\/p>\n

Read the Rest of this Post…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4655,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[11,208],"tags":[84,99,166,172],"class_list":["post-4111","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fantasy","category-medieval-fantasy","tag-early-period","tag-finished-costume","tag-sca-garb","tag-shopping"],"yoast_head":"\nBlack Fleur-de-Lis Gown & Red Sideless Surcote | Trystan's Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2014\/03\/28\/black-fleur-de-lis-gown-red-sideless-surcote\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Black Fleur-de-Lis Gown & Red Sideless Surcote | Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Taking my dip into “early period” to new heights … This started as a cheesy dress bought on eBay just to kick around camp, probably on Sundays, maybe in summer (since it’s a fairly lightweight cotton). I bought a size based on my hip measurement, knowing I’d have to fit the bodice down, plus hackRead the Rest of this Post...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2014\/03\/28\/black-fleur-de-lis-gown-red-sideless-surcote\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-03-28T17:16:05+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-12-11T20:12:19+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/redsurcote-featured.jpg?fit=500%2C451&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"451\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta 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I looked through my closet and decided on something vaguely wicked stepmother-y using my black gothic fitted dress (which I wore twice\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Fantasy"","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Wicked Stepmother at Carnevale","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/EvilStepmother-Carnevale-selfie.jpg?fit=495%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3144,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/09\/01\/1914-evening-gown\/","url_meta":{"origin":4111,"position":2},"title":"1914 Evening Gown","author":"Trystan","date":"September 1, 2006","format":false,"excerpt":"My first and probably only occasion to wear this gorgeous antique was the Time Travelers Gala at Costume College 2006. The event's theme was Tango Argentina 1910s, so this gown fit right in. I accessorized the dress with a rhinestone and pearl headband atop my hair piled on my head.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "20th Century"","block_context":{"text":"20th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/20th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Full gown, image from eBay auction","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/09\/1914evening1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5067,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2015\/05\/17\/marguerites-1590s-purple-fleur-princess-gown\/","url_meta":{"origin":4111,"position":3},"title":"Marguerite’s 1590s Purple Fleur Princess Gown","author":"Trystan L. Bass","date":"May 17, 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Two things you need to know about this dress: 1) Marguerite du Royon's heraldry is purple and gold with three fleur de lys, 2) Marguerite started her reign as Princess of the Mists wearing 1490s and has proceeded to wear later and later garb until this, the end of her\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"making a 1590s gown for Princess Marguerite, with help from the kitty.","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/marguaritesgown-inprogress.jpg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/marguaritesgown-inprogress.jpg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/marguaritesgown-inprogress.jpg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/marguaritesgown-inprogress.jpg?fit=800%2C600&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1040,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/11\/18\/veronese-inspiration\/","url_meta":{"origin":4111,"position":4},"title":"Veronese inspiration","author":"Trystan","date":"November 18, 2007","format":false,"excerpt":"This one's been on my mind for a while. In fact, this portrait was one of my early inspirations for what became the 1580s gown. I love the stripes, of course, and I really love the high, closed doublet front (and I did go for that style in the other\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2007\/11\/veronese1560.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":392,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/04\/planning-the-mary-queen-of-scots-pink-gown\/","url_meta":{"origin":4111,"position":5},"title":"Planning the Mary Queen of Scots pink gown","author":"Trystan","date":"August 4, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"I've loved this dress since I first saw the portrait in a book, sometime in the early 1990s. It's the classic refutation of \"pink is not period\" for renaissance faire or SCA. It's super-girly. It's fantastic! It's very Pretty Pretty Princess! This has been my dream gown, and dammit, I'm\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/08\/mqospinkportrait1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4111","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4111"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4111\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4615,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4111\/revisions\/4615"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4655"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4111"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4111"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4111"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}