{"id":523,"date":"2008-02-19T04:52:51","date_gmt":"2008-02-19T04:52:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=523"},"modified":"2014-12-12T09:38:58","modified_gmt":"2014-12-12T17:38:58","slug":"into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/02\/19\/into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/","title":{"rendered":"Into skirt-land, on our Y!Group"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I started my skirt this weekend, but I have a bunch of probably dumb questions&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>First, any recommendations for pleating into the waistband? I have a lot of fabric (maybe too much &#8212; about 5 yards, iirc) and several layers. Cartridge-pleating, box pleating, knife pleating? Other? Combo?<\/p>\n<p>Also, should the waistband be shaped somehow (dip in front\/back)? Or is it ok to have it straight around?<\/p>\n<p>Now to the layers &#8230; I think my skirt is the weirdest. The tiers are not even, tidy ruffles, plus they&#8217;re different types of fabric, all sheers, some trimmed.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s what *I think* is going on &#8212; not sure how to construct:<\/p>\n<p>1: floor-length purple silk<br \/>\n2: about 6&#8243; shorter light purple chiffon with black ribbon trim<br \/>\n3: about 6&#8243; shorter than that light purple chiffon with black ribbon trim<br \/>\n4: about 6&#8243; shorter than that black lace<br \/>\n5: mid-thigh-length black lace (goes up to waistband)<\/p>\n<p>In the portrait, you can see through the lace to the purple silk. Which makes me think you&#8217;re seeing through the chiffon too, and so the chiffon layers go all the way up to the waistband. Otherwise, wouldn&#8217;t you see a line of stitching if they were just ruffles sewn on at the hem? And wouldn&#8217;t that make them pouf out at the hem a lot? They hang very softly.<\/p>\n<p>Are they ruffles at the bottom and not layers from the top? Am I over-thinking this?<\/p>\n<p>Of course, I already went and bought more chiffon just in case. It&#8217;s probably a different color anyway. But hey, it&#8217;s silk and I don&#8217;t think what I have already is. Hee.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I started my skirt this weekend, but I have a bunch of probably dumb questions&#8230; First, any recommendations for pleating into the waistband? I have a lot of fabric (maybe too much &#8212; about 5 yards, iirc) and several layers. Cartridge-pleating, box pleating, knife pleating? Other? Combo? Also, should the waistband be shaped somehow (dip<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/02\/19\/into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":500,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,7],"tags":[90,91],"class_list":["post-523","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-19th-century","category-characters","tag-eugenie-project","tag-fabric"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Into skirt-land, on our Y!Group | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/02\/19\/into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Into skirt-land, on our Y!Group | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I started my skirt this weekend, but I have a bunch of probably dumb questions&#8230; First, any recommendations for pleating into the waistband? I have a lot of fabric (maybe too much &#8212; about 5 yards, iirc) and several layers. Cartridge-pleating, box pleating, knife pleating? Other? Combo? Also, should the waistband be shaped somehow (dipRead the Rest of this Post...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/02\/19\/into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2008-02-19T04:52:51+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-12-12T17:38:58+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/portrait-marquise.jpg?fit=382%2C500&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"382\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n\t<meta 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to the skirt, on our Y!Group","author":"Trystan","date":"February 23, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"I'm staring and staring, and I really think there are 2 full layers of black lace that go all the way up to the waistband. There are falling lines, folds, indicating drape in the lower, longer tier that show *under* the shorter layer. You can see the longer layer of\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Diagraming the skirt folds on the portrait","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-portraitskirtfold.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1523,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/01\/18\/pink-progress\/","url_meta":{"origin":523,"position":1},"title":"Pink progress","author":"Trystan","date":"January 18, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"It was kind of a girlie weekend, in more ways than three. Saturday, I did a ton of pleating and pinning and re-pleating and pinning to build the petticoat for my Carnivale outfit. I just took two widths of silk -- made the back one half-again as wide, for some\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Petticoat in progress","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/petticoat-inprogress1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1424,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/03\/21\/pleating-hell\/","url_meta":{"origin":523,"position":2},"title":"Pleating hell","author":"Trystan","date":"March 21, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"I F****KING HATE PLEATING!!!!! Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week. I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can't get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it's not as entirely\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"WTF","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/09\/wtf-featured.gif?fit=400%2C250&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1333,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2007\/02\/01\/thread-shortage-yet-crisis-averted\/","url_meta":{"origin":523,"position":3},"title":"Thread shortage (yet crisis averted)","author":"Trystan","date":"February 1, 2007","format":false,"excerpt":"So here I am last night, prepping the top edge of the skirt for cartridge-pleating. I'm using a strip of gingham because (a) I have a boat-load leftover from a previous cartridge-pleated skirt, (b) it makes for super-fast and easy marking, that is, no marking needed, just count off the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"1580s gown","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/03\/1580s-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C282&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1683,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2004\/05\/18\/random-observation\/","url_meta":{"origin":523,"position":4},"title":"random observation","author":"Trystan","date":"May 18, 2004","format":false,"excerpt":"Cartridge-pleating while mildly intoxicated is fun! The stitches might not be even, but they aren't when I'm stone cold sober either :-) The gingham trick is actually more of a pain in the arse than just eyeballing the stitch length. Dunno if I'll bother again (but I have yards and\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Lady Pirate","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2004\/05\/pirateskirt-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C300&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3210,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2006\/07\/10\/oh-pleat-me\/","url_meta":{"origin":523,"position":5},"title":"Oh Pleat Me","author":"Trystan","date":"July 10, 2006","format":false,"excerpt":"I'm stuck on the pleating. Can't figure out a simple equation for determining how much fabric should be in the pleat and how much between each pleat. My petticoat is 184\" around the hem. It will have a pleated flounce at the bottom. I sewed together all the strips for\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"black & white music-print fabrics","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/fabric-bwmusic.jpg?fit=400%2C300&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/523","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=523"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/523\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4728,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/523\/revisions\/4728"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/500"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=523"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=523"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=523"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}