{"id":579,"date":"2008-04-12T05:31:29","date_gmt":"2008-04-12T05:31:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=579"},"modified":"2023-08-27T09:26:03","modified_gmt":"2023-08-27T16:26:03","slug":"my-least-favourite-part-of-the-gown-on-our-ygroup","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/04\/12\/my-least-favourite-part-of-the-gown-on-our-ygroup\/","title":{"rendered":"My least favourite part of the gown, on our Y!Group"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_580\" style=\"width: 410px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthamockup.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-580\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-580 size-full\" title=\"progress-berthamockup\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthamockup.jpg?resize=400%2C384&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"Eugenie bertha mockup\" width=\"400\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthamockup.jpg?w=400&amp;ssl=1 400w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthamockup.jpg?resize=300%2C288&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-580\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eugenie bertha mockup<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Berthas are ugly and hard to make! But I&#8217;m getting there &#8212; evidence is in my folder on the Y!Group. Photo of my bodice with the bertha pinned on and lace pinned on (but not gathered).<\/p>\n<p>OMG I hate berthas! So completely ugly. And it kept angling weird, and the pleats went wonky on me and are uneven and weird and I hope the lace covers up\/distracts from the hideousness.<\/p>\n<p>I think I&#8217;ll rip the thing off after Costume-Con and just add a big lace ruffle.<\/p>\n<p>UG-LEE.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_581\" style=\"width: 410px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthalacepin.jpg?ssl=1\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-581\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-581 size-full\" title=\"progress-berthalacepin\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthalacepin.jpg?resize=400%2C355&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"Bertha with lace pinned on\" width=\"400\" height=\"355\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthalacepin.jpg?w=400&amp;ssl=1 400w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-berthalacepin.jpg?resize=300%2C266&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-581\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bertha with lace pinned on<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I hate bias strips! Yet another thing I hope never to make after this costume.<\/p>\n<p>Oh and I&#8217;m beginning to totally not see the need for having used silk here either, except for the fact that it&#8217;s &#8220;historically accurate.&#8221; Yep, those dreaded words again. In this specific case, most of the silk is covered up! Such a waste really. I could have used a decent blend or poly for half the price and all the same effect.<\/p>\n<p>The lace on top of it is probably a synthetic (never did a burn test) &#8212; I chose it for the pattern since that&#8217;s the most crucial part for the reproduction, incredibly hard to find. All the other trim is silk, which is nice, I suppose, but it&#8217;s not like you can tell by looking at it. And who&#8217;s going to touch it, other than workmanship judges? In any kind of real-life situation, the fiber content is irrelevant for this one.<\/p>\n<p>Sure, cheezy lightweight shiny synthetics = bleh!!! I can&#8217;t stand that. Cheapens an outfit and screams &#8220;Halloween costume&#8221; not &#8220;historical clothing.&#8221; But there is a middle ground between horribly expensive 100% silk and craptastic acetate.<\/p>\n<p>Ok, bitching over. Back to the grind. I *will* be finished with the main part of this gown THIS WEEKEND, goddamnit. I only have 1 major thing left to do on it. Then it&#8217;s all accessories&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Berthas are ugly and hard to make! But I&#8217;m getting there &#8212; evidence is in my folder on the Y!Group. Photo of my bodice with the bertha pinned on and lace pinned on (but not gathered). OMG I hate berthas! So completely ugly. And it kept angling weird, and the pleats went wonky on me<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/04\/12\/my-least-favourite-part-of-the-gown-on-our-ygroup\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,7],"tags":[90,91,184],"class_list":["post-579","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-19th-century","category-characters","tag-eugenie-project","tag-fabric","tag-trim-trim-trim"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>My least favourite part of the gown, on our Y!Group | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/04\/12\/my-least-favourite-part-of-the-gown-on-our-ygroup\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"My least favourite part of the gown, on our Y!Group | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Berthas are ugly and hard to make! 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Added darts for better shaping this morning in between bouts of \"OMG MIGRAINE.\" Probably should not have sewn first thing in the morning, more importantly, probably should not have had half a bottle of red wine so late Saturday -- that\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/fashionplate-eugenie.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":533,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/03\/02\/deep-into-skirt-land-on-our-ygroup\/","url_meta":{"origin":579,"position":1},"title":"Deep into skirt-land, on our Y!Group","author":"Trystan","date":"March 2, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"I have my base skirt assembled with the 2 tiers of black lace. I realize my lace is rather heavier than in the original, but ah well, it *is* a lovely embroidered lace and the pattern. I think, overall, my gown is going to be darker than the original. My\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Eugenie skirt in-progress","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/progress-skirt.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":595,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/04\/19\/finished\/","url_meta":{"origin":579,"position":2},"title":"Finished","author":"Trystan","date":"April 19, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"Yay!!! Well, I'm not happy with mine (it's a weird dress, but that's the portrait and era's fault; I'm so totally ripping the bertha and tucker off after this). But it's done and mostly fits, especially if I don't tight-lace (oops, I actually lost a tiny bit of weight after\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Time","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2007\/02\/time-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C220&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":512,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/01\/08\/status-report-with-mockup-on-our-ygroup\/","url_meta":{"origin":579,"position":3},"title":"Status report with mockup, on our Y!Group","author":"Trystan","date":"January 8, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"Didn't someone suggest that the shorties (like, ehem, Sarah and me) wear a little bit of a heel? If so, I have simple black pumps with louie heels that would work. I'll also keep trolling my thriftstore for white that I can dye to match my gown, but there's enough\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Eugenie bodice mockup","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/07\/bodicemockup.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3258,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2013\/03\/25\/all-but-hems-trims\/","url_meta":{"origin":579,"position":4},"title":"All but Hems &#038; Trims","author":"Trystan","date":"March 25, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"The problem with working on several costumes simultaneously is that I don't get that \"ah, finished!\" feeling from having completed any one item. All my projects are in a state of half-done, all at the same time. It's annoying & not my usual mode of operation. But I'm in deep\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Robe a la francaise with petticoat, in progress","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/484848_10200288998020389_78995670_n.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/484848_10200288998020389_78995670_n.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/484848_10200288998020389_78995670_n.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/484848_10200288998020389_78995670_n.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1457,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/05\/09\/burgundy-embroidered-silk-anglaise\/","url_meta":{"origin":579,"position":5},"title":"Burgundy Embroidered-Silk Anglaise","author":"Trystan","date":"May 9, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"This fantastic gown was made for me by SarahBellem Designs, aka my good pal Sarah. I bought this stunning (and frighteningly expensive) embroidered silk in the LA Garment District at Costume College '08, with the vague intention of making something 18th century. But, knowing me, the material would have languished\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/05\/tea-housetrystdonna.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/579","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=579"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/579\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6183,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/579\/revisions\/6183"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=579"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=579"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=579"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}