{"id":948,"date":"2009-08-19T23:26:23","date_gmt":"2009-08-19T23:26:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=948"},"modified":"2009-08-19T23:26:23","modified_gmt":"2009-08-19T23:26:23","slug":"drafty-in-here-har-har","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/19\/drafty-in-here-har-har\/","title":{"rendered":"Drafty in here (har har)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Pattern-drafting is not my strong suit, but I don’t live near enough to, well, anyone it seems for me to easily beg\/barter that service on a regular basis. Thus, I had to start on my own for to make this 16th-century doublet.\u00a0 *sigh.*<\/p>\n

I was inspired by what I could suss out of the seam lines in Janet Arnold’s female doublet for a young girl c. 1585. It’s not entirely clear what’s going on in the front — there is a curved front closure but also trim angled along the middle front, and they loved to trim along seams in this era.<\/p>\n

More importantly, when I laid muslin over my corseted dressform, I needed to add some kind of seam in the middle front to get any kind of flatness. That’s just the way the fabric and the body went. (FYI: I’m using effigy-style stays here (made by the fantastic Sarah<\/a>.)<\/p>\n

I ended up with essentially a princess seam from shoulder to garment hem. Seven pattern pieces total. Fit ok on the dressform and on me after, oh, a wastebin full of muslins to tweak the side and back pieces in particular.<\/p>\n

At this point, I couldn’t decide what I wanted to do with the neckline — either a 1610s-style low neck or an earlier high neck, perhaps even a sexy 1570s Italian-esque folded-back look. Also, the waistline is entirely unfinished, not sketched in at all. I left all the pieces super-long so I could draw in where I wanted it to go later.<\/p>\n

\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet mockup <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet mockup <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pattern-drafting is not my strong suit, but I don’t live near enough to, well, anyone it seems for me to easily beg\/barter that service on a regular basis. Thus, I had to start on my own for to make this 16th-century doublet.\u00a0 *sigh.* I was inspired by what I could suss out of the seam<\/p>\n

Read the Rest of this Post…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[38,133,147,166],"class_list":["post-948","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-16th-century-doublet","tag-makin-a-muslin","tag-pattern-drafting","tag-sca-garb"],"yoast_head":"\nDrafty in here (har har) | Trystan's Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/19\/drafty-in-here-har-har\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Drafty in here (har har) | Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pattern-drafting is not my strong suit, but I don’t live near enough to, well, anyone it seems for me to easily beg\/barter that service on a regular basis. 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They go together fine, no big stress, not like the strum und drang I hear from so many other\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/doublet-trimpin2.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":953,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/28\/tweaking-in-wool\/","url_meta":{"origin":948,"position":3},"title":"Tweaking in wool","author":"Trystan","date":"August 28, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"After all those muslins, it was time to cut some real fabric. I had a nice mid-weight black wool for the outside (it'll be interlined with something sturdy and lined with something soft later; I may add boning at the center front to keep the closure tidy and straight too).\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/wool2.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1929,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/12\/12\/i-like-big-sleeves-i-cannot-lie\/","url_meta":{"origin":948,"position":4},"title":"I like big sleeves & I cannot lie","author":"Trystan","date":"December 12, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"The only kind of pattern drafting I enjoy is making sleeves. Not sure why, but it's something I feel like I can handle. Maybe because the fit isn't as weirdly tricky as going over the bust & around the waist. There's only the armscye\/sleeve head to deal with & then\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/medicisleeve-trimmockup.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":960,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/09\/07\/duh-it-wasnt-meant-to-be-1580s\/","url_meta":{"origin":948,"position":5},"title":"Duh! it wasn’t meant to be 1580s","author":"Trystan","date":"September 7, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"This doublet that's been giving me such problems isn't what it seems to be. I've had images in my head, but I've been using a pattern (well, an idea of a pattern from PoF3, the 1580s doublet) that's based in the wrong time period. 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