{"id":953,"date":"2009-08-28T23:30:24","date_gmt":"2009-08-28T23:30:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=953"},"modified":"2009-08-28T23:30:24","modified_gmt":"2009-08-28T23:30:24","slug":"tweaking-in-wool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/28\/tweaking-in-wool\/","title":{"rendered":"Tweaking in wool"},"content":{"rendered":"

After all those muslins, it was time to cut some real fabric. I had a nice mid-weight black wool for the outside (it’ll be interlined with something sturdy and lined with something soft later; I may add boning at the center front to keep the closure tidy and straight too).<\/p>\n

I sewed up the sides but not the shoulder seams because I wasn’t sure of the placement. I thought they should be a little towards the back, but how much? I’d left it on my dressform for a few days when, lo and behold, Sarah happened to visit. I asked her advice on the fit and shape.<\/p>\n

In about 10 minutes, she raised the shoulders, pinned them back, and pinned in the side seams a bit. Wow! Made quite a difference. My front and back pieces were essentially the same, but the side backs (which I’d admittedly had a lot of trouble with) and the shoulder placement were all new and changed everything for the better.<\/p>\n

She also chalked in suggestions for a waistline and neckline, since I hadn’t gotten to that. The neckline idea is the maximum high neck, so I can make a pattern based on that and then cut away for different options later.<\/p>\n

And yes, I left a bunch of extra fabric at the center front. I like to do that so I have enough to fold back for whatever kind of closure I end up doing. Always easier to cut away!<\/p>\n

\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet, in progress, back <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet, in progress, front <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After all those muslins, it was time to cut some real fabric. I had a nice mid-weight black wool for the outside (it’ll be interlined with something sturdy and lined with something soft later; I may add boning at the center front to keep the closure tidy and straight too). I sewed up the sides<\/p>\n

Read the Rest of this Post…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[38,147,166],"class_list":["post-953","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-16th-century-doublet","tag-pattern-drafting","tag-sca-garb"],"yoast_head":"\nTweaking in wool | Trystan's Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/28\/tweaking-in-wool\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tweaking in wool | Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"After all those muslins, it was time to cut some real fabric. 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First, there was a lot of fussing with the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/doublet-finished1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2357,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2012\/03\/20\/heuke-will-be-happening\/","url_meta":{"origin":953,"position":3},"title":"Heuke Will Be Happening","author":"Trystan","date":"March 20, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"I'll have to sew every night this week, but I *will* be wearing that damn duck-billed cap thingy & the Flemish gown at March Drown Crown this weekend! 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