{"id":966,"date":"2009-09-20T07:40:56","date_gmt":"2009-09-20T07:40:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=966"},"modified":"2009-09-20T07:40:56","modified_gmt":"2009-09-20T07:40:56","slug":"my-so-called-late-16th-c-doublet-progress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/09\/20\/my-so-called-late-16th-c-doublet-progress\/","title":{"rendered":"My so-called late 16th-c. doublet progress"},"content":{"rendered":"

So much accomplished and it just doesn’t look like it. *sigh* Spent all weekend sewing, and, go figure, it would be the last, icky-hot weekend of summer too. But the result looks like actual clothing and is in a wearable state.<\/p>\n

First, there was a lot of fussing with the lining. And that darn neckline. I tried the bodice on over a shift and corset, and realized that, yes, the neckline really did need to be lower. The high “U” neck looked neither historically accurate nor attractive, so big ol’ broad scoop neck it is.<\/p>\n

Much more flattering and resembles the 1610s V&A miniature, and also the neckline in these effigies<\/a> that look 1580s-90s (but are oddly inscribed as 1559!).<\/p>\n

My neckline won’t be as low as this effigy of 1589<\/a>, but that seems awfully revealing. I often wonder if some of those were real or there’s artistic license going on, especially in the early 17th century. Paintings can show an amazing amount of flat chest, like, of questionable anatomical realism without having nipples popping! But that’s a research topic for another day \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Then I worked on the tabs, which I’d patterned out and begun sewing during the week. Drew the sleevehead wings too. Started the fiddly sewing of these things in, which required a combination of machine- and hand-sewing. At the same time, I inserted lacing strips into the armscye (Mom graciously made sets of lacing strips with the eyelet hole stitch on her fancy embroidery machine, whew!).<\/p>\n

I’m a little annoyed, ok, more than a little annoyed with this project. It’s been surprisingly difficult for something that looks so basic, now that it’s essentially finished. But I have to remind myself that this is, I believe, the very first garment I have patterned all by myself. I draped the muslin on my corseted dressform all alone, nobody helping me. I didn’t start with any kind of commercial pattern. I didn’t scale a pattern or diagram up from a book. Nobody draped this on me either.<\/p>\n

Sarah came along later and changed the shoulder seams and the side back seams a little. But I did 95% of the pattern myself, which has never happened before. And it’s a good, solid, basic, pattern that I can use for many things. So yeah, not thrilling but practical. And a good learning experience.<\/p>\n

Next up, sleeves. Easy-peasy — I’m making the basic Elizabethan sleeve from Hunnisett, which I’ve made several times before. Although I couldn’t find my scale-up of the pattern, drat, and had to make another one. Done and fabric cut. But it’s dinner time.<\/p>\n

\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet, mostly finished, front <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet, mostly finished, back <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"1559 <\/a>
1559 effigy from www.tudoreffigies.co.uk <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>
\"16th-c. <\/a>
16th-c. doublet, in progress <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

So much accomplished and it just doesn’t look like it. *sigh* Spent all weekend sewing, and, go figure, it would be the last, icky-hot weekend of summer too. But the result looks like actual clothing and is in a wearable state. First, there was a lot of fussing with the lining. And that darn neckline.<\/p>\n

Read the Rest of this Post…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[38,114,166],"class_list":["post-966","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-16th-century-doublet","tag-historical-portrait","tag-sca-garb"],"yoast_head":"\nMy so-called late 16th-c. doublet progress | Trystan's Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/09\/20\/my-so-called-late-16th-c-doublet-progress\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"My so-called late 16th-c. doublet progress | Trystan's Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"So much accomplished and it just doesn’t look like it. *sigh* Spent all weekend sewing, and, go figure, it would be the last, icky-hot weekend of summer too. 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I had a nice mid-weight black wool for the outside (it'll be interlined with something sturdy and lined with something soft later; I may add boning at the center front to keep the closure tidy and straight too).\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/wool2.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":948,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/08\/19\/drafty-in-here-har-har\/","url_meta":{"origin":966,"position":1},"title":"Drafty in here (har har)","author":"Trystan","date":"August 19, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Pattern-drafting is not my strong suit, but I don't live near enough to, well, anyone it seems for me to easily beg\/barter that service on a regular basis. Thus, I had to start on my own for to make this 16th-century doublet.\u00a0 *sigh.* I was inspired by what I could\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/08\/mockup3.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":960,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/09\/07\/duh-it-wasnt-meant-to-be-1580s\/","url_meta":{"origin":966,"position":2},"title":"Duh! it wasn’t meant to be 1580s","author":"Trystan","date":"September 7, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"This doublet that's been giving me such problems isn't what it seems to be. I've had images in my head, but I've been using a pattern (well, an idea of a pattern from PoF3, the 1580s doublet) that's based in the wrong time period. Doh! The neckline and sleeves I've\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"unknown woman, 1605-1625 (image source: V&A Museum)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/09\/1610vamini.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":977,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/10\/05\/late-16th-century-doublet\/","url_meta":{"origin":966,"position":3},"title":"Late 16th-Century Doublet","author":"Trystan","date":"October 5, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"I first wore the outfit at the SCA West Kingdom October Crown. I wore the doublet with a cartridge-pleated skirt made of purple tone-on-tone stripe drapery type fabric that I'd made a few months earlier (for an outfit that never panned out). And the weekend before this event, I made\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/10\/violetoutfit-full.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":989,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/08\/23\/reminders-to-self\/","url_meta":{"origin":966,"position":4},"title":"Reminders to self","author":"Trystan","date":"August 23, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"There's no point even considering hand-sewing something when the pattern you're using (Jacobean Jacket by Dawn Anderson Designs) isn't terribly accurate to begin with. It's not horribly inaccurate -- I can see exactly why the designer chose to put a seam there and that *is* accurate for doublet bodices in\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Jacobean jacket muslin","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/08\/jacket-muslin2-166x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1157,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/05\/11\/how-can-i-revamp-the-veronese\/","url_meta":{"origin":966,"position":5},"title":"How can I revamp the Veronese?","author":"Trystan","date":"May 11, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"I have a bee in my bonnet that I want to remake the black silk overgown of my Veronese outfit. I really love this piece, but it entirely doesn't close anymore and likely never will. But I want to wear it, it's so pretty! I think there's a way to\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "16th Century"","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Closeup of the bodices","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/veronese-close.jpg?fit=395%2C500&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/966","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=966"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/966\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=966"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=966"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=966"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}