{"id":998,"date":"2008-09-01T07:12:09","date_gmt":"2008-09-01T07:12:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/trystancraft.com\/costume\/?p=998"},"modified":"2008-09-01T07:12:09","modified_gmt":"2008-09-01T07:12:09","slug":"abt-all-but-the-trim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/09\/01\/abt-all-but-the-trim\/","title":{"rendered":"ABT (all but the trim)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I finally finished this sucker, despite a number of setbacks. Like discovering I had cut out two upper left sleeves out of the crewelwork, and of course, there wasn&#8217;t enough fabric left to cut a right upper sleeve. So instead of making the sleeves half crewel\/half solid, they&#8217;re all solid. DOH!<\/p>\n<p>The pattern was kind of a bother. The lining has this funky facing + bag lining, which totally over-complicates things. A simple bag lining would have been much smoother and tidier. (Cavet: Yes, I know, this is not historically accurate at all. The pattern doesn&#8217;t claim to be, and I wasn&#8217;t forcing it to be.)<\/p>\n<p>What following this pattern made me think, though, is that I&#8217;m just advanced enough to be annoyed by patterns (unless they&#8217;re really smart patterns, like Truly Victorian). I mean, if I had just used the basic pieces, made my changes (just to the neckline, in this case), and made my own bag lining, then everything would have been simple as pie.<\/p>\n<p>Anyway, I did everything but trim this jacket and figure out the closures. I might just pin it closed (accurate, easy, and lets me not have to decide :-). I&#8217;m also contemplating pink ribbons, because that&#8217;s both accurate and sounds a-freakin-dorable.<\/p>\n<p>Trim will be black gimp around the godets (to cover the crappiness) and along the bottom edge and black venice lace around the neckline. Not sure if I have enough lace for cuffs, but I&#8217;d love that too. And to tie the sleeves visually to the jacket better, I&#8217;ll applique strips from the crewel-work shawl edge along the center-top of each sleeve.<\/p>\n<p>Neckline and trim are rather inspired by this <a href=\"http:\/\/cgfa.sunsite.dk\/o\/p-oliver2.htm\" target=\"_blank\">unidentified portrait<\/a>.<\/p>\n<div class=\"tiled-gallery type-rectangular tiled-gallery-unresized\" data-original-width=\"640\" data-carousel-extra='null' itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageGallery\" > <div class=\"gallery-row\" style=\"width: 640px; height: 449px;\" data-original-width=\"640\" data-original-height=\"449\" > <div class=\"gallery-group images-1\" style=\"width: 327px; height: 449px;\" data-original-width=\"327\" data-original-height=\"449\" > <div class=\"tiled-gallery-item tiled-gallery-item-large\" itemprop=\"associatedMedia\" itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageObject\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?ssl=1\" border=\"0\" itemprop=\"url\"> <meta itemprop=\"width\" content=\"323\"> <meta itemprop=\"height\" content=\"445\"> <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"\" data-attachment-id=\"1000\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"435,600\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"jacket-finishedtrimpin\" data-image-description=\"&lt;p&gt;Jacobean jacket, possible trim layout&lt;\/p&gt; \" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?fit=217%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?fit=435%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?w=323&#038;h=445&#038;ssl=1\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?w=435&amp;ssl=1 435w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?resize=217%2C300&amp;ssl=1 217w\" width=\"323\" height=\"445\" loading=\"lazy\" data-original-width=\"323\" data-original-height=\"445\" itemprop=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/image\" title=\"jacket-finishedtrimpin\" alt=\"Jacobean jacket, possible trim layout\" style=\"width: 323px; height: 445px;\" \/> <\/a> <div class=\"tiled-gallery-caption\" itemprop=\"caption description\"> Jacobean jacket, possible trim layout <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <!-- close group --> <div class=\"gallery-group images-1\" style=\"width: 313px; height: 449px;\" data-original-width=\"313\" data-original-height=\"449\" > <div class=\"tiled-gallery-item tiled-gallery-item-large\" itemprop=\"associatedMedia\" itemscope itemtype=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/ImageObject\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?ssl=1\" border=\"0\" itemprop=\"url\"> <meta itemprop=\"width\" content=\"309\"> <meta itemprop=\"height\" content=\"445\"> <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"\" data-attachment-id=\"999\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"417,600\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"jacket-finishednotrim\" data-image-description=\"&lt;p&gt;Jacobean jacket, waiting for trim&lt;\/p&gt; \" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?fit=208%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?fit=417%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?w=309&#038;h=445&#038;ssl=1\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?w=417&amp;ssl=1 417w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishednotrim.jpg?resize=208%2C300&amp;ssl=1 208w\" width=\"309\" height=\"445\" loading=\"lazy\" data-original-width=\"309\" data-original-height=\"445\" itemprop=\"http:\/\/schema.org\/image\" title=\"jacket-finishednotrim\" alt=\"Jacobean jacket, waiting for trim\" style=\"width: 309px; height: 445px;\" \/> <\/a> <div class=\"tiled-gallery-caption\" itemprop=\"caption description\"> Jacobean jacket, waiting for trim <\/div> <\/div> <\/div> <!-- close group --> <\/div> <!-- close row --> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I finally finished this sucker, despite a number of setbacks. Like discovering I had cut out two upper left sleeves out of the crewelwork, and of course, there wasn&#8217;t enough fabric left to cut a right upper sleeve. So instead of making the sleeves half crewel\/half solid, they&#8217;re all solid. DOH! The pattern was kind<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"excerpt-more blog-excerpt\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/09\/01\/abt-all-but-the-trim\/\">Read the Rest of this Post&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[92,97,166,184],"class_list":["post-998","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-16th-century","tag-failure-is-always-an-option","tag-faux-embroidered-jacobean-jacket","tag-sca-garb","tag-trim-trim-trim"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>ABT (all but the trim) | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/09\/01\/abt-all-but-the-trim\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"ABT (all but the trim) | Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I finally finished this sucker, despite a number of setbacks. Like discovering I had cut out two upper left sleeves out of the crewelwork, and of course, there wasn&#8217;t enough fabric left to cut a right upper sleeve. So instead of making the sleeves half crewel\/half solid, they&#8217;re all solid. DOH! The pattern was kindRead the Rest of this Post...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2008\/09\/01\/abt-all-but-the-trim\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Trystan&#039;s Costume Closet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2008-09-01T07:12:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/jacket-finishedtrimpin.jpg?w=323&#038;h=445&#038;ssl=1\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Trystan\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" 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Well, ok, mostly because of that. But also because of my asinine attempts to modify this men's Colonial coat pattern into a more fitted, girlie pirate coat. The side darts are all fucked up -- but I thought I\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"WTF","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2006\/09\/wtf-featured.gif?fit=400%2C250&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1600,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2003\/01\/05\/start-me-up\/","url_meta":{"origin":998,"position":1},"title":"Start me up","author":"Trystan","date":"January 5, 2003","format":false,"excerpt":"I used Simplicity 9891 for the body of the dress and McCall's 3663 for the sleeves. Luckily, I discovered that I had enough black velvet in my fabric stash already. Also had enough black lining in my stash. Only fabric I needed to buy was the silky dark red fabric\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Fantasy&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Fantasy","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/fantasy\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Arwen Mourning Gown","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2003\/01\/arwenmourning-featured3.jpg?fit=400%2C219&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1929,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/12\/12\/i-like-big-sleeves-i-cannot-lie\/","url_meta":{"origin":998,"position":2},"title":"I like big sleeves &#038; I cannot lie","author":"Trystan","date":"December 12, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"The only kind of pattern drafting I enjoy is making sleeves. Not sure why, but it's something I feel like I can handle. Maybe because the fit isn't as weirdly tricky as going over the bust & around the waist. There's only the armscye\/sleeve head to deal with & then\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/medicisleeve-trimmockup.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":832,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/12\/06\/zzzzzzz-zouave\/","url_meta":{"origin":998,"position":3},"title":"Zzzzzzz-zouave","author":"Trystan","date":"December 6, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Got the basic form cut and sewn last night. Added darts for better shaping this morning in between bouts of \"OMG MIGRAINE.\" Probably should not have sewn first thing in the morning, more importantly, probably should not have had half a bottle of red wine so late Saturday -- that\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;19th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"19th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/19th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/fashionplate-eugenie.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":373,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2011\/03\/01\/last-minute-jacket\/","url_meta":{"origin":998,"position":4},"title":"Last-minute jacket!","author":"Trystan","date":"March 1, 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Fueled by vast quantities of Kauai coffee, I started on a new jacket for Williamsburg. Yeah, I went there. Made from this purple-shot-with-red dupioni silk in The Stash. First, I dug out the J.P. Ryan jacket pattern I'd fitted last fall in planning for the Lumieres gambling party (but abandoned\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;18th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"18th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/18th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Time","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2007\/02\/time-featured.jpg?fit=400%2C220&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":973,"url":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/2009\/09\/22\/no-sleevil-here\/","url_meta":{"origin":998,"position":5},"title":"No sleevil here","author":"Trystan","date":"September 22, 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Not the I'm bragging, but I don't see what the fuss is about sleeves. They're pretty easy. My sleeves probably don't look that good to anyone else, but I like them. They go together fine, no big stress, not like the strum und drang I hear from so many other\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;16th Century&quot;","block_context":{"text":"16th Century","link":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/category\/16th-century\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/doublet-trimpin2.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/998","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=998"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/998\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=998"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=998"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.trystancraft.com\/costume\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=998"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}