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panic! at the sewing room

Posted on December 27, 2006 by Trystan

My idea for recreating the Lettice Knollys sleeves isn’t panning out, and I’m thinking of ditching that concept for now in favor of something quicker that uses less fabric. I can futz with the Knollys sleeve later. I *need* to have a wearable Elizabethan gown by January 6th, no lie. Doesn’t have to be fancy, just has to be wearable, and have NOTHING in my closet.

Here’s what I did today, and I’m not happy with it:

Sleeve mockup 2
Sleeve mockup 2
Sleeve mockup 1
Sleeve mockup 1

This was in a stiffer cotton than muslin, clearly not as stiff as the brocade-interlined-with-twill I’ll use for the final sleeve, so it doesn’t have the same fullness. But I don’t like the shape of the hanging sleeve — it’s identical to the inner sleeve and that doesn’t work, should be straighter and not curved. The inner sleeve is ok, but I messed up the armscye size (again — christ, I always seem to do that when I try to draft my own sleeves!). I did draft a nice cuff and epaulet on my own, but then, those aren’t exactly rocket science.

Small sleeve mockup

Small sleeve mockup

Point is, the pattern isn’t perfect enough for me to want to cut into the pearled silk I spent big bucks on for the inner sleeve, nor waste that much of the nice burgundy brocade for the outer sleeve.

So I need new sleeves! I could try to cut it down in width. Or I could try a different sleeve from Hunnisett. She has a “basic small Elizabethan sleeve” on page 64 of the 1500-1800 book. Simple straight sleeve, one piece, I think it has a seam in the back.

Kinda plain and boring, but I am in a hurry, and I’ll do a cool sleeve for the Elizabeth and the Pirate Feast (tix on sale now!). Whatever sleeves I make will tie/hook on anyway for ye olde Elizabethan interchangeability.

Ok, here’s the small sleeve mocked-up (on the left). It’s not fancy, but it doesn’t take up much fabric and it’s easy. Eh, oh well. Guess I’ll go for that.

I’m also thinking I should make the skirt closed in the front. No time for a forepart. Gah. No time for anything. What’s gonna go on my head even? Have to cover this modern hairdo! Eeek!

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Posted in 16th Century | Tags: 1580s burgundy court gown, makin' a muslin, sleevils |
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