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Posted on January 25, 2009 by Trystan

It’s only a paper stomacher…

Stomacher pattern

Stomacher pattern

The easiest thing to pattern. Just stick some paper under the francaise and draw a shape. Smooth out the lines. *Ta da* It’s a stomacher. For the actual item, I used an inner layer of white mid-weight canvas-y stuff, covered w/the pink silk on both sides and the sari fabric on the front, all hand-sewn since it was fussy little edge whip-stitching.

The sleeve ruffles took longer to figure out.

Final sleeve ruffle cut out
Final sleeve ruffle cut out
Second sleeve ruffle mockup
Second sleeve ruffle mockup
First sleeve ruffle mockup
First sleeve ruffle mockup

Two patterning passes to get the right size. Bigger is better!

As with everything, a layer of pink silk backs the sari fabric for umph.

Took a few pleats in the sari fabric to mimic the ruffle curve. I seem to recall a way of curving the sewn edge of the ruffle to get straight embellished border edges to fit on a curved ruffle nicely. I futzed with it for a little bit but couldn’t remember how that worked and bailed.

That’s kind of the story of these sleeves — I know there are things I could have done to make them tidier and prettier, but I just didn’t want to waste time messing with it. They work as-is, and I’ve made notes on the pattern pieces if I want to work it out in a future project.

Started having fun with the wavy roller blade…

Making some trim!

Making some trim!

It is super-cool!

Here’s a trim idea for the skirt:

A trim mockup idea

A trim mockup idea

Here’s some trim pinned on the stomacher, plus what I’ve already sewed on the bodice:

Sewing trim on the bodice

Sewing trim on the bodice

And finally, here’s something of a money-shot — me in the gown (just ignore crappy hair, etc):

Me, wearing the in-progress gown

Me, wearing the in-progress gown

Mom came and pinned up my hems. Yay, Mom!

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Posted in 18th Century | Tags: pattern drafting, pink & black robe a la francaise, pretty in pink, sleevils, trim trim trim, Venetian carnevale |
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