After all those muslins, it was time to cut some real fabric. I had a nice mid-weight black wool for the outside (it’ll be interlined with something sturdy and lined with something soft later; I may add boning at the center front to keep the closure tidy and straight too).
I sewed up the sides but not the shoulder seams because I wasn’t sure of the placement. I thought they should be a little towards the back, but how much? I’d left it on my dressform for a few days when, lo and behold, Sarah happened to visit. I asked her advice on the fit and shape.
In about 10 minutes, she raised the shoulders, pinned them back, and pinned in the side seams a bit. Wow! Made quite a difference. My front and back pieces were essentially the same, but the side backs (which I’d admittedly had a lot of trouble with) and the shoulder placement were all new and changed everything for the better.
She also chalked in suggestions for a waistline and neckline, since I hadn’t gotten to that. The neckline idea is the maximum high neck, so I can make a pattern based on that and then cut away for different options later.
And yes, I left a bunch of extra fabric at the center front. I like to do that so I have enough to fold back for whatever kind of closure I end up doing. Always easier to cut away!
