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Nearly done with 1530s

Posted on October 24, 2012 by Trystan

1530s gown almost done

1530s gown almost done

I can’t believe how fast this gown went together! Ok, it didn’t hurt that I essentially had the patterns already done. But the sewing was all straightforward stuff, nothing complicated. Attaching the parts together was really just a lot of cartridge-pleating, which I find easy — well, tough on the fingers, and yes, blood was spilled, but that’s just because I was sewing through heavy fabric and I can’t stand using a thimble. Known issue.

There isn’t much trim to this gown, so it looks a bit spartan. Or is this what they call “simple elegance”? I just hand-sewed two lines of black grosgrain ribbon around the neck, somewhat like the inspiration portrait. Silk ribbon would have been nicer, but I didn’t have time to order any online and that’s not something I can find in local stores.

I was going to make a fancy balzo, but then I realized I had a funny little roll hat thing that I’d made and used as a demonstration for an SCA newcomer’s event to wear with a veil. It’s of questionable historical accuracy but looks kinda nice on, plus it’s of a burgundy brocade fabric that goes really well with this gown. Tip it around on the side and *ta da* balzo-esque appearance! I added a filigree gold piece and a ton of gold trim crisscrossed to bling it up. You’ll just have to wait until I have pix wearing it with the appropriate hairstyle.

Closeup of finished bodice

Closeup of finished bodice

Speaking of wearing it, I tried on the gown with a shirt (several different shirts, even) to get the look of the portrait and HATED IT. For one, every period shirt I have makes the forearms of these sleeves way too freakin’ tight. They fit fine without another layer under them, but all my shirts are too full-sleeved, even the ones that I cut slimmer to fit underneath gown sleeves. I think it’s just the stiffness of the velvet. But worse, the beautiful wide neckline and shoulders of this gown look AWFUL with a high-necked shirt/partlet underneath. It’s beyond prissy into absurdly layered. Maybe my physical proportions are so different from the tall, long-necked woman in the portrait or I cut the neckline of the gown differently. I don’t know. But the shirt/partlet thing did NOT work at all. Icky. At least I realized that now instead of the night of the event.

When I did have the gown on, I pinned the hem, since that was the last thing to sew. All that’s left after that is to figure out a fancy belt.

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Posted in 16th Century | Tags: 1530s Veronica Gambara, SCA garb | 8 Comments
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8 thoughts on “Nearly done with 1530s”

  1. Johanna says:
    October 24, 2012 at 4:55 pm

    Gorgeous! You’re such an awesome costumer!

    • Trystan says:
      October 24, 2012 at 8:27 pm

      Awww, thanks!

  2. Laina says:
    October 24, 2012 at 5:27 pm

    Well. I must say I *quite* enjoyed the results of the Google Image Search I just did for “balzo”.
    Thank YOU for that! 😀

    • Trystan says:
      October 24, 2012 at 8:28 pm

      LOL!!! I hadn’t tried that before. Yahoo! Image Search shows a couple hats, but a lot more Italian hotties. I usually do the web search only.

  3. Alyxx says:
    October 24, 2012 at 7:48 pm

    Is there and inner sleeve under the puffy part? You could roll up your shirt sleeves above your elbow so they don’t have to cram into the lower sleeves, mebbe?

    It’s very pretty – great fabric. Simple elegance is the perfect canvas for big bling. Just sayin’

    • Trystan says:
      October 24, 2012 at 8:31 pm

      Hmm… one of shirts I could maybe roll the sleeve up & stuff it inside the big puff of the gown’s sleeve (there’s tons of room in there). But I just wasn’t thrilled w/the look of the shirt/partlet under the neckline. It was so … frumpy! More elegant w/out, I think. But I’ll take a look again before the event.

  4. Saraquill says:
    October 25, 2012 at 5:30 pm

    The sleeves look so elegant!

    As for the shirt issue, could you get away with wearing a camisole underneath? That way, the dress gets some protection, and you don’t have to worry about sleeves or an unflattering neckline.

    • Trystan says:
      October 26, 2012 at 11:08 am

      Thanks! I’ve considered making a sleeveless partlet, just not sure if I’ll have time before the event. Then again, I hated the way a partlet looked under my Venetian gown, so dunno. Parlets might not be my thing…

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