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Bring on the 18th Century

Posted on January 24, 2013 by Trystan

While I have a few wee SCA projects to work on at the start of this year, my main sewing goals between January and May are going to be all 18th century, all the time. Why? Because we’re going to France, baby! We are renting a chateau in the south of France with the same group of friends that rented an English manor house back in 2010. And all our costume events will be 18th-c. themed because look at this place:
Inside the chateau

Inside the chateau

The state of my existing 18th-c. wardrobe is pretty sorry. A lot of things don’t fit or are just really old & sad. The only thing that I particularly like is the purple silk jacket. So I need more clothes.

Here are my plans at this moment, which are subject to change, but you gotta start somewhere…

Redingote fashion plate from Galerie des Modes

Redingote fashion plate from Galerie des Modes

Stripey Redingote

Years ago, right before several of us went to Colonial Williamsburg for a quite excellent conference, I started making a redingote out of red & black striped mystery material (meaning, questionable fiber content, but it has a nice drape). The project had fitting problems, & I ran out of time to fix it, thus it’s languished in the UFO pile ever since. But I’m determined to resurrect it.

It was loosely inspired by this black & red redingote fashion plate from Galerie des Modes, & I made a batwing collar & cuffs from black velvet painstakingly hand-edged with black silk ribbon. I also collected a bunch of vintage black velvet buttons for the center front & cuffs.

This will be worn with the black silk ruffle-hem petticoat I wear with approximately 99.99999% of my 18th-century wardrobe. I’d love to make a ginormous black Gainsbourgh hat to go with it, but I’m already packing a ton of luggage (we pre-paid for extra bags when we bought our plane tix!), so I may go sans chapeau en France, but make a new hat for later, such as at Costume College.

Portrait of Maria Anne Fitzherbert by Sir Joshua Reynolds

Portrait of Maria Anne Fitzherbert by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1788

Chemise a la Gothique

I started this on a whim last year right before Costume College in the vain hope it could be my Gala gown. I got as far as making the bodice & sleeves but did not attach them.

It’s extremely vaguely inspired by the portrait of Maria Anne Fitzherbert, in that she’s wearing what possibly could be a black & white chemise gown.

But I was mostly inspired by the fabric, a delicate & delightful silk/cotton blend with a stunning border print in black. I bought this at the L.A. Garment District in 2010 & immediately knew it was meant for a frothy, froofy chemise gown. I have zero historical evidence for printed chemise gowns, but whatever. Colored ones existed & this fabric looks period-esque, so let’s call it a mash-up.

Gallerie des Modes, 1781. Grand deuil de cour.

Gallerie des Modes, 1781. Grand deuil de cour.

Black Robe a la Francaise

Because I need a new francaise, dammit! Sometime last year, I found some yummy black tone-on-tone silk online crying out to become a new gown for France. We hadn’t even picked a chateau yet or really confirmed that we were going. But the dress demanded it be made & be worn in its country of origin. Who was I to deny such a thing?

I’ll make Kendra drape me, as she did for my Carnevale francaise. Not exactly sure how I’ll trim it, but I do like the black tonal thing going on in this fashion plate, especially with the white ruffles.

I’m also thinking I could rip off the expensive black lace from my Eugenie skirt & use that on the underskirt here for an extra lux touch. Reduce, reuse, recycle.

Tempted to wear the tall white pouf I made for Leonard with this, but again, packing, oi!

Portrait of Lady Frances Courtenay by Thomas Hudson, 1741

Portrait of Lady Frances Courtenay by Thomas Hudson, 1741

Rubens’ Masque Costume

When I saw this painting at the Huntington in L.A., I fell in love. Must have that costume! Also turns out that there was something of a trend in the early- to mid-18th century for being painted in this dress, which is an homage to a painting by Peter Paul Rubens of his second wife.

Kendra even gave me some black silk satin to make it with (because she loves me!). However, I’m putting this on my “maybe” list for France because I don’t really need it when I have the francaise.

But I will make it, & this will be my Costume College Gala gown for this year (I’ve peed on it, you can’t have it 😛 ).

Portrait of Margaret Kemble Gage by John Singleton Copley, 1771

Portrait of Margaret Kemble Gage by John Singleton Copley, 1771

Dressing Gown

I simply must have a period dressing gown to swan about the chateau in. I have a little fantasy about starting one day — rise leisurely, throw on my dressing gown over my chemise & stockings, & have a cup of coffee or chocolate while sitting by the windows. *sigh*

And I have a bunch of soft burgundy silk taffeta in The Stash perfect for the dressing gown. I may need a prettier shift to go with, but that’s easy enough to whip up.

1795-1800 cape, Metropolitan Museum of Art

1795-1800 cape, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Cape or Mantle

This may be a necessity, due to the time of year. Late spring/early summer weather is hopefully sunny in the south of France, but one must be prepared.

I don’t have any plans or fabrics for a little cape or mantle, but of the period images I’ve seen, I like this one the best. Just gotta line it with something super-warm!

This should be enough, & I have plenty of hats & other accessories.

I might possibly bring along Leonard’s suit for some cross-dressing fun, tho’ I’d want a daytime wig that I’d need to style. Otherwise, I should be able to use wigs I currently have.

Still, that’s quite a large to-do list. Best get crackin’!

 

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Posted in 18th Century | Tags: black robe a la francaise, chemise a la gothique, France, historical portrait, historical research, Rubens masque costume, shopping, stripey redingote, undies, wigs | 10 Comments
« A Gothic Gothic Fitted Dress
Something Like a Chemise Gown, No Really, Trust Me »

10 thoughts on “Bring on the 18th Century”

  1. Johanna says:
    January 24, 2013 at 8:16 pm

    Oh wow! What an amazing prospect! Go you!

    • Trystan says:
      January 25, 2013 at 12:06 pm

      Heh, I better get to work!

  2. Franny Zawadzki says:
    January 24, 2013 at 10:32 pm

    OH. MY. GOD! *swoon* *faint* *swoon* THAT is one amazing place. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE! Oh Trystan, I am so envious! France and the 18th century — two of my “secret” crushes. If you need historical inspiration please contact me. I have a huge amount of French, English and American 18th century goodies at my fingertips. You lucky, lucky duck.

    • Trystan says:
      January 25, 2013 at 12:07 pm

      Awww thanks! I may indeed hit you up 😉 T&I went to France 10 years ago & have been jonesin’ to return, so going back with friends & costumes is like a dream come true.

  3. Pixel Pixie says:
    January 25, 2013 at 6:34 am

    C’est fantastique! Bon voyage!

    • Trystan says:
      January 25, 2013 at 12:08 pm

      Merci!

  4. Kendra says:
    January 25, 2013 at 11:07 am

    Love all your project ideas! I am super excited about the gothic chemise, and I want you to make that fancy dress costume! And a black francaise will be swoon-worthy. AND can’t wait to see T in LAVENDER! HOT DAMN!

    • Trystan says:
      January 25, 2013 at 12:10 pm

      I totally need your help on the francaise, drape me, baby! And yes, oh yes, the masque dress will be done by CoCo, if not before. SO much to sew!!!

  5. Cathy Hay says:
    February 19, 2013 at 6:17 am

    I only just caught up with this now – how exciting! I’ve been toying with the extra idea of a 1790s round gown that would make a fabulous robe…. hmmm, seems like it might be de rigeur after all… Can’t wait to see your progress posts and pics!

    • Trystan says:
      February 19, 2013 at 3:21 pm

      I’m not getting as much in-progress post material bec. I’m trying to push thru & just sew, but oh yes, dressing gown has begun too 🙂

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I should have worn heels &/or more makeup, lol. But @sashavelour’s show at the Berkeley Rep was magnificent! Funny, smart, thinky, sassy, everything I needed. This week needs more sparkle! I’m slowly unpacking from my trips & the 1st things out were these fun buys from Du Barry Fashions in Las Vegas. Purple glittery leggings, a pink rhinestone pill case, a tiny tiara to top a wig, & some cool deco-esque earrings. Forgot to post this costume earlier — I wore this skull-print jacket (made from a tablecloth), plus a new purple hat, at our chateau last week. Look where I get to stay this week! @maisondechastenay has this beautiful room for me with cat pillows on the bed 😻 The house is beautiful & I’m amazed at the work @lisavandenberghe has put in to make this such a charming & comfortable B&B. Hanging out with my bestie at another 18th-century party in France! Yesterday was hot & humid at Vaux le Vicomte, but @fannywilk’s pink apero party was delightful! Spooky sunset shenanigans in the chateau’s upper story. Just a little walk around our chateau yesterday! Brunch al fresco at the Donjon!

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