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Finally, an English Fitted Gown

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Trystan

You’d think I would have made one of these by now, given that “Elizabethan” is my One True Costuming Love & late 16th-century lowland Scots is my SCA persona. But no, I’ve yet to make the ever-practical English fitted gown. So it’s about time. You’ve seen all the period images before, but I’ve added a few more, so let’s just put them all in one place, fully documented, m’kay.

1544, Margaret Foljambe (de Villiers) from Staffordshire, image from Flickr
1544, Margaret Foljambe (de Villiers) from Staffordshire, image from Flickr
1558, Elizabeth Engeham from Kent, image from Flickr
1558, Elizabeth Engeham from Kent, image from Flickr
1558, Mary Boys from Kent, image from Flickr
1558, Mary Boys from Kent, image from Flickr
1568, Wife of Nicholas Heron from Croydon, image from Flickr
1568, Wife of Nicholas Heron from Croydon, image from Flickr
1569, detail from "Fete at Bermondsey" by Joris Hoefnagel, image from Wikimedia
1569, detail from “Fete at Bermondsey” by Joris Hoefnagel, image from Wikimedia
1570, English bourgeois women by Lucas de Heere, image from University of Ghent
1570, English bourgeois women by Lucas de Heere, image from University of Ghent
1574, English gentlewomen by Lucas de Heere, image from Wikimedia
1574, English gentlewomen by Lucas de Heere, image from Wikimedia
1582, detail from "Nonsuch Palace" by Joris Hoefnagel, image from Wikimedia
1582, detail from “Nonsuch Palace” by Joris Hoefnagel, image from Wikimedia

I made this for October Crown in a pink & black colorway. There was a breast cancer fundraiser at this event, & I was still going through chemo. Get it? Why yes, everything in my world does revolve around that. I have other pink gowns in my costume closet, but I wanted something a little simpler & easier to wear.

I used a pink wool-silk blend from The Stash, but it was awfully flimsy. Had to line it with whatever I could find, which included twill in hidden places & a random-blend burgundy damask where it’d show. I barely had enough black velvet ribbon to guard the front. The sleeves are my fave part — big ol’ things, interlined like crazy to puff out, & swirled with two kinds of black gimp (raiding The Stash for every scrap that was left!).

This was worn over a black kirtle from my closet, tho’ it could go with a variety of petticoats, plus a linen shirt. I was surprised by the gift of a fabulous pink ruff from Laina, so I whipped up a little wig to go with. The day was hot & windy so I only wore this combo for a little while, but got pix. Later, I removed the ruff & wig & wore a coif I hand-sewed from some blackworked-print cotton, then alternated between my retrimmed tall hat & my black velveteen flat cap.

1560s English fitted gown, photo by Sandra Linehan
1560s English fitted gown, photo by Sandra Linehan
Back of gown, photo by Sandra Linehan
Back of gown, photo by Sandra Linehan
Portrait with ruff, photo by Sandra Linehan
Portrait with ruff, photo by Sandra Linehan
Bodice closeup, photo by Sandra Linehan
Bodice closeup, photo by Sandra Linehan
Sleeve closeup, photo by Sandra Linehan
Sleeve closeup, photo by Sandra Linehan

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Posted in 16th Century | Tags: English fitted gown, historical portrait, historical research, pretty in pink, ruffs, SCA garb | 5 Comments
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5 thoughts on “Finally, an English Fitted Gown”

  1. Bunny says:
    November 18, 2013 at 4:48 pm

    The colours are so you!
    Can there be an one-and-only true costuming love? Or is it really true-love-for-now? 🙂
    !!
    ()~

  2. Kendra says:
    November 18, 2013 at 11:39 pm

    That is seriously fabulous!!

  3. Crystal says:
    November 19, 2013 at 1:09 pm

    I think it turned out marvelous!

  4. Leia says:
    November 19, 2013 at 5:25 pm

    Perfection!!!

  5. Molly says:
    November 21, 2013 at 3:46 pm

    So pretty! I love the black and pink color combo.

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