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Leonard’s Purple 16th-Century Suit

Posted on June 16, 2022 by Trystan L. Bass
Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

I’ve had this fabric earmarked for Leonard’s 16th-century suit for ages, and I finally bit the bullet and commissioned Jenn to make it for me. After all, she’s the pro, having made countless gorgeous such suits for fellas in the Court of St. George. We had a great time planning the design and during the fittings, making sure my vision came to life just as planned.

purple silk fabrics

Inspired by period portraits like these:

c. 1575 - Portrait of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester
c. 1575 – Portrait of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester
c. 1595 - William Fitzwilliam of Milton and Gainspark
c. 1595 – William Fitzwilliam of Milton and Gainspark

In addition to the purple patterned silk, I had a solid silk that matched quite well, and for the black piping and lining, I had the skirt of an old gown that I’d cut up for yardage. Reduce, reuse, recycle! The only trimmings so far are the black skull buttons on the front of the doublet and black silk buttons on the sleeves. At a later point, I can add beading and such.

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit - in-progress
Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit - in-progress

I made Sir Leonard a jeweled collar of state using an Avon pendant from eBay and a bunch of ouches from Truly Hats, plus a miniature of a past lady love to alternate with, as well as a pearl earring.

chain of state - in-progress

16th-c. miniature - in-progress
Trying out portraits
16th-c. miniature
The final choice!

Leonard needed a jaunty purple beard to match my purple hair. I used a human hair beard in grey and dyed with Overtone Purple for Brown Hair just because that’s what I had around, but I’m sure there are plenty of probably cheaper ways to dye. The final beard was trimmed down to a goatee and mustache.

dying Leonard's beard purple
Before
dying Leonard's beard purple
After

The hat is one I made years ago, just added new feathers. The plummy shoes are custom-made by Hubley Leatherworks.

16th-c. purple shoes

I wore the suit with my Bella Donna group around Venice and on a lovely gondola ride at Carnevale!

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

I also wore this suit at the Jamestown Fashioned in History Conference for the party on the pier.

Leonard's 16th-c. purple suit

 

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Posted in 16th Century, Characters, Drag, Venetian Carnevale | Tags: 16th-c purple suit, cross-dressing, fabric, finished costume, hats, historical portrait, historical research, jewelry, Leonard, made by Jenn, shoes, travel, Venetian carnevale |
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