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Black & White Edwardian Suit for Carnevale

Posted on June 18, 2022 by Trystan L. Bass
Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

This was not the Edwardian black-and-white stripe suit I planned for Carnevale 2022, but this was the one that turned out pretty damn good in the end. A year before, our group decided to take a walk in Edwardian costumes, preferably in black and white, during Carnevale. So I thought this would finally be the time to make my version of Helena Bonham-Carter’s awesome stripey suited costume in Wings of the Dove (1997).
Wings of the Dove (1997), Helena Bonham Carter
Wings of the Dove (1997), Helena Bonham Carter

That costume by Sandy Powell has a stripe skirt, but I would reverse it and make a stripe jacket with a solid skirt. Then Karen gave me a bunch of black-and-white stripe fabric that was leftover scraps from her Carnevale outfit. This sealed the deal!

black & white stripe fabric

I started by basing my jacket on a McCall’s pattern and making an exaggeratedly large collar, more like the movie costume.

McCalls pattern 7641
1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket - in progress

I even thought I’d make it up all proper ‘n shit by pad stitching a layer of hair canvas and steaming the collar’s curve. Oh foolish girl!

1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket - in progress - pad-stitching
1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket - in progress - pad-stitching

Well, it was all for naught because that jacket fought me like hell. First off, that fabric was weird. It was a mystery blend upholstery weight where the white satin was lighter than the stiff black velvet stripes. It didn’t want to drape or curve at all. And it was SO hard to fit! I tried multiple times, first taking apart the sleeves and changing the shoulder with my mom’s help, then taking off the skirting and adjusting the bust and waist with Kendra’s help. But no, it never fit me quite right.

1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket
1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket
1st black & white stripe Edwardian jacket

It might look reasonably OK on the dressform (which it doesn’t fit either because that’s not my corseted shape). But it looked AWFUL on me. Unfortunately, I realized this in mid-January, after having worked on this coat off and on for nearly a year. And Carnevale was coming up in a month!

Well, I’d bought some yummy black and white stripe wool at a Black Friday sale (long after I was deep into fitting this coat) … and I found a different but still Edwardian-ish pattern in my stash. And huzzah, this one went together super easy in a weekend or two! Far less fussy to fit due to the boxy shape, and the wool was like butter to work with.

Butterick pattern 6108 & black & white fabric
2nd black & white stripe Edwardian jacket - in progress

I’d long earlier skipped the idea of making a skirt, blouse, and waistcoat. Instead, I bought an Edwardian Twill Skirt from Recollections and a random white ruffled blouse on Amazon (after going through a bunch of different blouses from my closet, eBay, and Amazon, eep).

The hat was simpler to make! Inspired by how Jen Thompson made a huge Edwardian hat from a sombrero, I set about doing the same. I found a $24 felt sombrero on Amazon and ripped off all the trim, punched down the pointy crown, and steamed the brim flat-ish. To cover the crown, I gathered a circle of black silk and sloppily tacked / glued that over it. Then I assembled a giant bow out of purple silk, plus a hat band, which I tacked around the brim. I ordered some big-ass ostrich feathers from OnlineFeathers, curled them a bit, and tacked them to the hat. Ta da! Giant fucking hat, done.

sombrero bought on Amazon
edwardian hat - in progress
edwardian hat - in progress
edwardian hat - in progress

People ask how I packed this hat because it’s so big. Easy — it’s big, but it’s only as wide across as my biggest suitcase. So I just stick it in the mostly full case, upside down, with some tissue around the feathers, and stuff socks and things inside the crown, packing things all around.

So, on to Carnevale! We walked around Venice and headed to the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, which is a beautiful white classical edifice on a little island directly across the lagoon from Piazza San Marco.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

I also styled a curly purple wig to fill out my own hair & better balance the hat on.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

Accessorized with my bat purse, purple tights, & American Duchess pompadour shoes.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

Wearing vintage rhinestone glasses occasionally.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

Around the campo near our flat.

Carnevale 2022 - Karen, Trystan, & Kendra in Edwardian

Karen, me & Kendra in black & white.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

On the island of San Giorgio Maggiore with the campanile in the background.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian group

Liam, Kendra, Barbara, me, Karen, & Liam on the steps of the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore.

Carnevale 2022 - Trystan & Kendra in Edwardian

Me & Kendra as Edwardian tourists inside the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore.

Carnevale 2022 - Edwardian suit

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Posted in 20th Century, Venetian Carnevale | Tags: 1910s black & white stripey jacket, Edwardian suit, failure is always an option, finished costume, group costumes, handsewing is weird, hats, last-minute sewing, tailoring, travel, Venetian carnevale, wigs |
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I should have worn heels &/or more makeup, lol. But @sashavelour’s show at the Berkeley Rep was magnificent! Funny, smart, thinky, sassy, everything I needed. This week needs more sparkle! I’m slowly unpacking from my trips & the 1st things out were these fun buys from Du Barry Fashions in Las Vegas. Purple glittery leggings, a pink rhinestone pill case, a tiny tiara to top a wig, & some cool deco-esque earrings. Forgot to post this costume earlier — I wore this skull-print jacket (made from a tablecloth), plus a new purple hat, at our chateau last week. Look where I get to stay this week! @maisondechastenay has this beautiful room for me with cat pillows on the bed 😻 The house is beautiful & I’m amazed at the work @lisavandenberghe has put in to make this such a charming & comfortable B&B. Hanging out with my bestie at another 18th-century party in France! Yesterday was hot & humid at Vaux le Vicomte, but @fannywilk’s pink apero party was delightful! Spooky sunset shenanigans in the chateau’s upper story. Just a little walk around our chateau yesterday! Brunch al fresco at the Donjon!

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