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Moar fabric and new plans

Posted on November 8, 2009 by Trystan
Red & gold damask poly
Isabella von Valois (image source: Kunsthistorisches Museum)

Isabella von Valois (image source: Kunsthistorisches Museum)

I think I’d like to make this gown for the SCA 12th Night this year. I can use the same side-laced bodice pattern as the black and grey 1570s gown. If I don’t get it trimmed, I can still wear it plain. So it’s not as super-mega labor-intensive as my initial plan of making the MQoS pink gown for this event.

At Jo-Ann’s today, I bought a burgundy taffeta for the petticoat (so looks like it’ll be a split-front gown!) and burgundy velveteen for hem and bodice guarding. Bits of both fabrics will be incorporated in the sleeves to tie everything together visually. I have some faux garnet and pearl beads left in The Stash, along with some unused gold braid and scroll trim, all of which are suitable for bodice and sleeve trims.

Another inspiration image: Isabella von Valois, painted by Alonso Sánchez Coello in 1560, held by the Kunsthistorisches Museum. I like the split overskirt and the classically French bodice shape. The trimming is gorgeous.

The sleeves are intriguing — I like the spiral, but not the aglets (those would annoy me, all the crap hanging off!). I really like the contrast of the sleeves, with the reddish top portion and white lower sleeve. Not that I’ll do that; my whole fabric scheme is very tone-on-tone. This is just something to keep in mind.

The shape and width of this skirt indicates a farthingale is worn underneath. It’s wider than all of the gowns in the tapestries, although one of gowns in the tapestry is distinctly narrow. The rest are middling wide — could be over small farthingales or at least stiff, corded petticoats. Ultimately, my skirt width will be based on how much fabric I have to work with, especially since I’ll be matching up the damask pattern for best effect.

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Posted in 16th Century | Tags: historical portrait, Valois gown |
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